This one data point, yes, relatively normal for a noncat. I don't believe that it is ever normal or advisable to see 1200 on a flue probe meter regardless of how long it's held there even if it is rated to be above 1000 for an hour. Why on earth would you let it get that hot?
Having extremely high pipe temps tells me it's running wide open, once your fuel is burning strong you should be able to use the draft control to slow down the incoming air. The baffles in the stove should be keeping the heat in the stove, not sending it up the chimney.The directions talk about the EBT Extended Burn Technology system, it's secondary burn baffles that should be catching the exhaust gases and reigniting them and sending them back down into the stove, NOT up the chimney. I am guessing that either that baffle system isn't either installed right, or installed at all. You had this installed, could it be the baffle system was left out and just collecting dust in the back of some store or truck someplace? Can you see one of these anywhere?
My quadrafire insert had the same type of air outlet for the blower to blow out. I don't get real STT there because it's not really the stove top.
My SIL's T5 (not the 2020 LE) doesn't have EBT, where secondary air is metered depending on stove temp. Hers is a mechanical link..adjusting primary air directly adjusts secondary air to the baffle accordingly. I'm curious as to whether shik has the new LE version, with EBT. OH, that pic of the baffle is a bit deceptive..In reality, yes the bottom holes shoot flame downward but the front holes shoot straight out and with draft, both flame lines and their heat are drawn upward around the front of the baffle. So it heats the stove top and flue temps also rise. Her stove likes to run, when burn is established and air is cut all the way, between roughly 625 stove, 360 flue and 725 stove, 475 flue. Flue temp is a surface magnet meter at maybe 15". Secondary starts firing at 350 -400 stove. shik, what you haven't showed us yet is what the secondary is doing. A pic, or better yet a youtube video, might help us evaluate the burn better..
Hello, New here. Use Hearth.com regularly, but stumbled across this site...so I signed up. I have a PE Summit, so almost identical design, mins the EBT. I had the same problem you are having my first year. I can 100% guarantee your wood is dramatically unseasoned. The fact it stalls out after temps are achieved is the number one indicator. Also, your flue temps are so high because the wet wood is off gassing so rapidly and creating a tremendous amount of smoke. Once combustion temp is reached in the flue, there is a ton of smoke, or energy, in the flue. The smoke is combusting in the flue rather than the stove. Once air is cut off, there's not enough to support combustion, so it stalls out and smokes. I saw in your sig that you buy wood. Are you buying two years ahead? Also do you close the air slowly? 100% open, then 75, then 50, then say 10%. Also the pic, looks like maybe there are bio-bricks? Those are a completely different animal and can go nuclear real fast. If that's what your using, then you can basically start dampering down once you see first flames. then roll at 50% till they're decently burning and damper down real quick. I really don't think a pipe damper is your issue. Might help, but that's not the main issue causing this. Just figured I'd share my thoughts. Good luck!
To test the wood theory maybe you can buy some firewood that you know is seasoned or use some ecobricks, etc...
Thanks for the kind welcome! I have a B2650. Amazing what these things can do. Only minor regret is wishing I jumped up to the L2501 for some more weight.
I had a similar issue with a stove years ago. I had a leak in my stove pipe that was letting in enough air to burn off the smoke in the flue. Flue temps would go nuclear even though the stove was relatively cool. I confirmed this by using smoke to see where it was pulling in air (right around the collar where the pipe connects to the stove), sealed it up, and it ran great after that.