Igniter staying on

You need an Amp clamp around only one of the igniter wires for it to read the current correctly.
It should read greater than 2 and less than 4 amps if it is working correct.
1st pic - Shows current after installing a new Harman 4 port circuit board in a Harman P43
2nd pic - Shows current reading an the old Harman circuit board that would not make the new igniter hot enough to get the pellets warm!

 

Ok. So should barely show anything after the ignitor is done lighting the pellets and the red ignitor diode light is off.

 

Yes - less that 1 amp!

 

Ok. Thanks again.

 

I'd try replacing the igniter, cheap enough. You could also unplug the igniter and light your stove manually til spring and deal with it then.

 

already did. We'll test if staying on this weekend after i do stove cleaning and fire up agsun.

 

Ok. New ignitor installed. 2.47amp when ignitor light on. 2.37 when diode light went out. Not good i assume. Also switched to manual mode on harman whereass ignitor does not come on. Still shows 2.37amp.

 

Time to put your soldering skills to the test.....

 

Not expirienced in that. Dont even know what the triac looks like.Prob have to get a new board. Wondering how long before this ignitor bites the big one.

 

Unplug it and manually light the stove. Bad enough to spend on a new board leave alone also a igniter Here's your chance for the updated board badbob swears about

 

Can you link me to Bad Bob's post please

 

PM sent. I have never seen a igniter stuck on in a Harman, but have in an Englander. Don and LW would know.

 

badbob beat me to it! Thx

 

Tony...if you sent the board my way, I can take a look and probably get that triac swapped for you. Once you swap it out with a new one, send a good picture of the top and bottom of the board.

 

Assume you mean to maybe fix it and send it back to me as a spare? Or did I misunderstand you

 

yup, happens. Usually if the igniter shorts out, it will blow the triac in whatever mode it was in when the short occurred, from what I understand. This will result in the igniter always being on, regardless of mode or startup/shutdown state of the stove. The only good way to diagnose it is to use a clamp meter on one of the igniter wires....it appears Tullytown already did this. Not only will your igniter probably fail prematurely, you can also bubble your burn pot as well. An igniter usually shorts out when the high temp white insulation on the wires gets frayed and shorts, or someone replaced the burnpot and pinched a wire, causing the short, or, someone changed the igniter and didnt pull the plastic insulated wires back far enough and they burned and shorted. I suspect there are more of these than one might think

 

"….. or, someone changed the igniter and didnt pull the plastic insulated wires back far enough and they burned and shorted. I suspect there are more of these than one might think"

I have seen this on the two P68 stoves & a P61A that I purchased in the past year; luckily, I found them during the deep cleaning process and the wires were not touching anything that would short them, in all cases it was because there were either insulated Spade connectors or Wire Nuts used that were not pulled back into the air tube, they were left under the pot. In all instances, the plastic insulated wires were in the tube but the previous owners cut the high temp insulated wires at the clean-out cover and used either the spades or wire nuts right under the burn pot!

 

Correct...

 

Yes...whenever you can.

Technically the front and back of the board