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Ideal Steel Season #2 Tips, Tricks, and Improvements.

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by JA600L, Sep 13, 2015.

  1. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    If you want to remove the cat probe plus easily just do it while the stove is warm.
     
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  2. chance04

    chance04

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    This one
     
  3. Intruder

    Intruder

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    JA600L....I've had the stove since last year. Ran it 24/7 throughout the winter. This year I've only had it burning for a few days. Way to warm out right now.
    Babaganoosh....I got a condar 3-12-1 temp probe. It's a 4" probe. I think that's what others are using.
     
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  4. JA600L

    JA600L

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    I could picture a bimetallic strip, but that ash pan door doesn't really get hot. ..
     
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  5. pappy88

    pappy88

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  6. JA600L

    JA600L

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    Don't forget to clean your cat! Mine was starting to get a little sluggish. So I pulled the cat out and inspected it. There was a good bit of ash build up in the cells. I used a soft brush and vacuum on it. I also had some new flakes from the radiator above the cat so I scraped them off. It's hard to believe after a year that piece is still flaking. During shoulder season, more cold starts means more newspaper ash. Keep an eye on the cat and how it performs.
     
  7. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    Wow, I was just about to post about this. I went to clean my cat the other day and the steel from the heat shield had came off and was on the cat. Took pics too. 1st pic is the cat, second pic is the heat shield flipped up on its side showing the bottom.

    IMAG1506.jpg IMAG1505.jpg
     
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  8. JA600L

    JA600L

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    Yep, it did that like crazy when new. That radiator will begin to warp as well. It is a wearable part apparently as Woodstock says it's normal. It takes a serious beating when the cat is glowing red.
     
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  9. JA600L

    JA600L

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    Here is a picture of mine from January of last year.
     

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  10. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    If it's a wearable part they really should state that in the manual.
     
  11. JA600L

    JA600L

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    That's my words "wearable". We all saw it last year and it eventually stops the heavy flaking. I do think in 5 years time or so it will need to be replaced or patched. I will just take it to a local machine shop and have them make one.
     
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  12. T-Stew

    T-Stew

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    Would this be a candidate for a stainless steel make over?

    Hopefully later today I'll get a tee and get the venting hooked up on mine...
     
  13. JA600L

    JA600L

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    I'm a little behind the game but I'm tired of hearing the alarm clock ringing. Who remembers this? :) I've had it for over a year just never bothered installing it. With all this warm/cold weather it's starting to drive me nuts.
     

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  14. T-Stew

    T-Stew

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    So some quick questions. For those using the Condar 3-12-1, does it just sit somewhat loosely in the hole? Do you have to seal it?

    Also what is the recommended break in fires. I tried searching the other IS thread, and had a bunch of hits talking about but not explaining the break in fires. Manual just says "a series of small to moderate fires". I tend to overthink things but would like a little guidance since I did get all the soapstone options and don't want to damage them. Just kindling the first time? Should have her runnin tomorrow.
     
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  15. NVhunter

    NVhunter

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  16. pappy88

    pappy88

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    I bought a flue pipe probe at the same time & it came with a magnet. I used that magnet on my cat probe instead. Drilled the flue pipe hole a little smaller & that probe went in real tight, so all good here. the magnet also moved it out about 1/4" & it worked out good. The cat probe is upside down so I can see it better! scanner test 018 (Medium).jpg scanner test 019 (Medium).jpg
     
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  17. JA600L

    JA600L

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    Do a slower start up and gently bring it up to temp. Do that a time or two. Then rock and roll. It's going to smell terrible until you get it above 600 degrees or more and hold it. Make sure you can open the windows and doors.
     
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  18. Gark

    Gark

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    On the subject of the mechanical cat probes that some folks are using, does the probe itself lose some heat along its length from the hot spot above the cat back to the meter face especially where the probe shaft touches both the rotating cat sled rod and the stove body? In other words, the probe stick could lose some of its temperature where it contacts cooler iron components. Or is that negligible?
     
  19. Brad38

    Brad38

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    You're right, stew it's not very clear. My first fire was kindling + a couple of small splits. I think I topped out on the stovetop at around 350 with the ir thermometer (no cat engagement) A couple of fires after that, (I think it was the next day), I let it get just a tad hotter by building it with a couple more splits, and it got hot enough to engage the cat. It's a really easy stove to season. Just don't burn it super hot the first several times, and you'll have the moisture out and paint cured in no time. Good luck!
     
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  20. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    I made a kindling fire to drive the moisture out. Kept adding a little more kindling here and there to keep the fire going to ensure the moisture was gone. Plus God forbid there's something wrong with the stove you don't want it to go south on you with a box full of wood.

    Then I built a small fire with some splits and 2x4s. Let that burn out. After that I went with a fire that was half a load. This was to cure everything and to finally engage the CAT.
     
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