They work harder... You get all the smoothness and balance of the smaller/lighter saw, and the sheer "git er dun" power you'd have to step up a couple saw sizes to have otherwise... Oh... And there is no mistaking the sound... Absolutely, will keep the bears away...
Hmmm... I run one of my 361s with a 25 inch solid ES and GB bars all the time, and have been doing that for many years now. Oak, pine, fir, maple, etc. Full comp and full skip. Falling, bucking, limbing and noodling. I also run my 036 with an ES 25 as well. I do not find them to be nose heavy or underpowered, even with full comp chain. With semi-chisel full comp it can be a tad slower, but... I can also bog any saw, including my 066. Also as for 70cc saws running 24/25 inch bars, a stock 70cc Husky 365 has 4.6 HP, and a stock 60cc Stihl 361 has 4.4 HP. A stock 036 has 4.6 HP as well. Not enough difference to make much of a difference. Bottom line? A 361 will run a 25 inch bar. So will an 036. So should a stock 562xp with 4.7 HP. Keep your saws tuned and your chains sharp. Run non-safety loops. And yes, I suffer from West Coast Long Bar Disease. But these guys out here, they run 361s with 28 inch bars, even with stock oilers that cannot keep that size bar oiled. So a 24/25 is not really extreme for a 60cc saw, in my view.
a stock 361 with a 25'' bar leaves a lot to be desired for myself. if im running a 24-25'' bar falling timber you can bet its going to be hanging off of a 70cc saw. ill never be one to run too much bar for a saw to be able to run it with the utmost authority.
I had an 036 once upon a time....... I thought a 20" was a little much for it. I would have put an 18" on it if I would have kept it.
So you are saying that cc's make the difference, and not power? A 60cc 036 has the same rated HP as a 70cc 365 x-torq. Basing bar length on cc's alone makes no sense to me. My first 361 came with an 18, and I sold that bar on a 310 that I flipped. I run 20-25 inch bars on them. I heard the same stuff on AS about running a 25 on a 361 on AS before I made the switch, and I was (and still am) perplexed with the eastern obsession with running shorter bars on saws. I would also run a 22 inch on my 361s if they came in 3/8 0.050, but they are all 0.063 gauge. Its a different world out here. Different methods of falling, and longer bars on smaller saws with skip loops. 75% of the saws I saw run by pro fallers in the woods here were 044/440s, and 25% were 036/360s. When those saws went away, the 360s became 361s and the 440s became 460s or 372xp's. I got a 372xpw myself, but I sold that and hung onto my 044. About that time I flipped from large scale falling and thinning to an urban arborist and chipper biz, and I got a lot more smaller saws (026, 211s, 020/200Ts). Of course all that time there were the fringe fallers and arborists that I saw, and they were using mostly 290s. 290s were by far the most common with county road crews, weekend fallers, unemployed tradesmen doing arborist jobs, and homeowners that were trying (and failing) to do tree work. Most of hem has 20s on them.
im not going to argue or try and justify what I know. im not a weekend warrior on either front whether its running saws or building them. run whatever you want on your saws, I can guarentee that's what im going to do.
Yep. I agree. There are to many variables. You run what you brung! It either works or it doesn't. I love AS, but we don't need to turn this place into a "This what is supposed to be" Forum. Everyone has different conditions, preferences, and overall expectations. I run short bars on everything because I buy Log loads. My 036 has a 16", 044 has an 18" or 20" and 460 has 20"-25" (have a 32" skip when needed). Because I specify my logs to be 20" Max, I run small bars and 8 pin rims. I like a nuce fast cut and this also allows me to run on the low setting on my oilers.
For 60 cc (59 cc actually), it is the toughest out there in its class Congrats on the purchase. Thats one of the best firewood machines made today (for the average cutter that only needs 16" to 24" )
Dexterday do you run ethanol free fuel in your saws? Just want to take care of this bad boy and heard thats the way to go
It is a very good preventative measure to take. One that I wish I did? But sadly do not. . If it were closer to me? Then I would, but I have to travel pretty far. I do use a treatment, make small batches, and also only keep it for so long. After a month, whatever is left will go in my Mower (we are normally talkin under a half gallon divided between my 2 5 gallon tanks. so a 1/4 gallon in 4-5 gallons of fuel aint gonna hurt nothing. If its close? Grab it... If not, then make smaller batches and use it before it has the chance to absorb any water.
Pros: 1. Lightning quick throttle response. 2. Always optimum fuel setting, no matter the ambient temp or elevation. 3. Strato design is a real fuel sipper. 4. NO vibes... 5. Rich default... If something goes wrong, or event of an air leak, the carb will default to a rich setting to prevent powerhead damage. Cons: 1. The thought in the back of your head.. "Is this thing really keeping it's self tuned right?" 2. Outboard clutch. (That's just a pet peave of mine, some prefer the outboard) 3. If you depend on your local dealer for service, they will need the software to plug the saw in and make any adjustments necessary.
what if you dont depend on local dealer? can you get software to do yourself? what adjustments would need to be made? i thought this was autotune!?!