Husqvarna 262xp start problem

I use the air hammer to remove the flywheel just as MasterMech stated above - need to have the nut back off the crankshaft enough to stop the hammer from jumping out of the recess. Thank you for the kind offer of borrowing your puller KRed - I'll try my method tomorrow and if a few blows don't work, I may just ask you to borrow that puller - covering your mail expense of course! I'll post pics tomorrow of what the flywheel and key look like and see what you all think. Cheers!

 

Tim, is that a Husky puller? Sounds cool, any idea what the tools p/n is?

Adam

 

By the way guys, assuming the flywheel is bad - figured I'd toss out a request for a possible used flywheel if anyone has a parts saw - if you do, let me know and we can talk price, etc. Thanks!

 

Stupid expensive because it works on any HVA saw with screw on pawls!

 

Yes, Adam it is an HVA puller. It is comprised of three parts a spanner that attaches to the flywheel, a bag of bolts of various lengths and sizes for all the flywheels and a central puller similar to a Stihl flywheel puller that presses against the end of the crank.

The part numbers are:
Spanner & Screws: 502 51 49-02
Spanner only: 502 51 49-01
Screws only: 502 51 54-01
Puller: 502 50 26-01
The puller can also be used with the worm wheel puller to remove the crank shaft mounted oil pump worm gear.

Have a look at the attached file for all the factory tools.

OH, and I'll have a look round for a 261/262 flywheel, I'm sure I've got one some where, part number is: 503 52 94-01.

 

Well, I do have one. Don't even think about new, they over $150! There are three on e-Bay right now 40, 89 and 159 dollars respectively.

 

Great KRed - I'm going out for a bit, but will post picks of my flywheel in a couple hours - from what I see, it looks fine, but I'll let you and others look. Still no start after realigning flywheel. I'm getting stuck on this one - I'll be posting in a little while with pics and what I'm thinking. Thanks for checking on the flywheel! Cheers!

 

and here I always thought it was a Morse Taper(from my time on lathes) - learned something new today

 

IIRC, Judson was either a Swede or a Norwegian The taper design was developed a long time ago.

 

Okay - just got back with the pictures - here they are - tried to get good shots of the key way and key on the flywheel. From my view, all looks good with both the key way and the key. No obvious signs of shear or disforming of the key. So.....buttoned her back up and still no start. Not even a burp with a shot of carb cleaner in the cylinder. Always started pretty easy in the past (within the last week). Checked compression - 15opsi. Spark still strong as viewed with spark tester. New spark plug. Plug wet after cranking with choke on - seems to be getting plenty of fuel. Verified choke plate is closing. I haven't touched the carb settings since about 7 days ago when the saw was running well. Carb mounts are tight. All coil wires are attached well. No sign of bent crankshaft - no noticeable wobble and no rubbing of flywheel on coil. Spark screen clean. I haven't replaced fuel filter and line, and I'm sure the carb could use an overhaul - it's diaphragms are original to the saw - but to not get a sputter with either carb cleaner or a little mix in the cylinder or intake + wet plug + running well a week ago makes me think it's not fuel related. So.....good compression, good spark during test (but perhaps not firing in the saw?), and apparently good fuel (or at least my shots into the cylinder should have gave a brief start). I'll pull the muffler tomorrow and check the piston, but seems to pull over nicely - no strange noises, etc. Also, the strong snap back I was having during starts seems to be much less after reassembling the flywheel - but that might be a fluke - it's done that on and off since I've had the saw (about a year). Well - I'm running out of ideas - what do you all think? Thanks!

I seem to be having a problem posting the pics - I'll try again in a minute. Cheers!

 

damm - clicking on the 'upload a file' button is doing nothing - I'll keep trying. Cheers!

 

Okay - this should be the pics. Thanks!

 

This was my thought too - I only have the tester that you use with the coil plug cap and ground to metal - I don't think that works with the plug in, but I've never tried. I'll have to check into this - it makes the most sense at this point. Thanks MM. Cheers!

 

Here is the spark tester I have - seems to always do fine, but I don't think I can check spark with the plug in the saw. The photo in the diagram seems to indicate you can check for spark with the saw running by attaching the ground clamp to the top of the spark plug, and doing the normal insert of the other end into the plug boot. Would that test for spark while I'm cranking? Thanks!

 

Ha! Okay, I took the saw back apart, so I'll put back together tomorrow and see if I can get spark with the plug installed and in-line with the tester. Hoping to figure this out soon - I love this saw - like having a sick kid. Cheers!

 

One other thought, do you have another coil you could try? My thought is that the 'trigger' section of the coil could be going bad. Current PN for the coil is 544 01 83-01

 

KRed - that was my next thought too - I don't have an extra coil for the saw, but I see some cheap aftermarket ones on eBay for about $15 shipped - might be worth picking one up to see if it solves the problem, then buy a better one if it does. We'll see - I've been cutting a lot so haven't had time today to work on it. Thanks for all of the suggestions! Cheers!

 

A 254/257 coil is the same part. Models 40, 45, 50, 51, 55, 61, 257, 261, 262, 266, 268, 272 all use the same coil!