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Husky 3120xp Rebuild

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by LordOfTheFlies, Apr 19, 2022.

  1. huskihl

    huskihl

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    All of them I’ve been into were packed full of grease inside the oil pump and then sealed on the outside. They don’t want the crankcase sucking air from there.

    also, I’m not really a parts replacer if they aren’t bad. I’m a believer that things like bearings and rubber were better 30 years ago than they are today. But 25 years is about the limit for seals. If it’s close to that old I would replace them. If the bearings roll smoothly and they are metal caged, I would leave them in
     
  2. LordOfTheFlies

    LordOfTheFlies

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    You mean just the bearing was packed full of grease? Or the entire area under the oil pump? In this case it was just a bit of grease on the bearing itself. I didn't see grease elsewhere.

    If that seal is meant to prevent air it definitely failed because there was a lot of sawdust in between the oil pump and the crank bearing.

    Did you watch the video? Seems to me that the bearing is indeed rolling fine but again my thought process is that all that evidence of excessive heat (destroyed brake band, tons of debris, melted brake handle, discoloration of the inside surface of the clutch) tells me the clutch side bearings probably took some heat. And I want this to be the last major work on this saw. I think it would be prudent to do a split and replace, n'est-ce pas?

    That said the bearings are metal caged and seem to roll smoothly.

    What kind of grease? I looked up the IPL and I think I need the grease gun tool part# 501911402.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2022
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  3. M2theB

    M2theB

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    I’ve seen OEM publish allowable air leak rates when testing. The 2100CD for sure and I think I also read one on a Stihl 075. Big saws.
    I could follow the thought huskihl lays out with the grease.
     
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  4. LordOfTheFlies

    LordOfTheFlies

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    I downloaded the Operator's manual (seems like it covers ALL Husky saws) and for the 3120 there is a special section for oil pump assembly and it does not mention anything about sealing the outer edge of the oil pump. The few videos I've found on YT also don't show that step either. That's weird.

    That said I think I'll just use some extra exterior silicone sealant that I have. Looked up the IPL and that foam piece is there to filter the opening for the oil flow adjustment screw. Not sure why there was plastic there though.

    upload_2022-4-24_16-48-44.png

    upload_2022-4-24_16-49-33.png
     
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  5. LordOfTheFlies

    LordOfTheFlies

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  6. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    Be careful with this link. I went there to see if my 254 manual was listed. I got into some loop that said something like "Windows has detected a virus. Call xxx-xxxx and our technmitions will lead you through the removal of the virus. If you close out of this warning we will have to disable your computer." I couldn't close out and had to go totask manager and signout. Re-booted Noeffect on my computer.
    Run my virus programs and no virus detected. Just what happen to me.

    Interesting rebuild.
     
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  7. LordOfTheFlies

    LordOfTheFlies

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    Sometimes they make money by embedding these "false" links. I haven't had a problem though. You just need to make sure you are clicking on the right thing!

    Thanks - it is gonna get interesting real soon when I start putting it back together!
     
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  8. SKEETER McCLUSKEY

    SKEETER McCLUSKEY

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    Don't forget to tighten the flywheel nut...lefty loosey righty tighty
     
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  9. huskihl

    huskihl

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    I didn’t see anything in the service manual. But out of a dozen new ones that I’ve had here, the oil pump is siloconed to the case