I figured out about 6 posts back your talking about the fake wood stuff. I was thinking vynal floor or sheet stuff.
Butcher helped me devise a plan We had a wall removed between the room where the dogs are and the old room where the cabinets sit. The high spots are the 2 previous exterior door thresholds on the right and left of the opening. Going to pull up the old exterior door thresholds and go from there. Could be: , maybe even run the wood the other direction so it looks purposefully done. I guess we have get into it to explore more options. Sears gift cards remain unspent til then
Unless your going real cheap you can have real wood for the same cost or cheaper than many laminets. Course the fake stuff holds up to claws better. I put 3/4" thick 3.5" wide red oak in my front room. I think with wood, materials including tar paper nails and paper and 7 coats of varthane I am into it about $4/sqft. Ignore the Christmas mess!!!
He is 15 months in a few days. All of a sudden he started sleeping better. We were getting up just once a night. Then this week has been a little rougher but still nothing like christmas. Last few nights have been good though. Pray it continues.
wildwest, If you don't have access to some laser product, either use a 78"-96" level, or sight a 2 x 4 to make sure it's straight, and use 2 identical thickness blocks at either end of your choice of straight edge, then measure down to the floor.... At the blocks, 1/2 way between blocks and the threshold, then at the threshold. Find the average before you get to the thresholds, and subtract for a more accurate measurement than laying your head on the floor!!! "Pretty close" ain't on ANYBODY'S" ruler! The Skil saw trick will work- if- you kerf the bulk of material, leave an 1/8" between kerfs, THEN, push the saw slowly perpendicular to your initial direction, thereby "planing off" the thin leftover cuts. You have to make several perpendicular passes to avoid the round shape of the blade. After that, throw your 7 1/4" blade away!!! Can finish with a belt sander. The other ideas posted above work great too, any leveler will do the job, perhaps tho you're translating the height difference to another part(s) of the room = toe trippers that need custom transitions. Great big space you have there! Eric VW
Phew!! No sleep is hard to function on! Since ours has been sleeping better the last few years, we only miss sleep now when shes sick with a bug, or skips her nap. So glad for all of you
Wildwest, Saw the thread at lunch today but didn't get a chance to reply. First off, who framed the addition? I would bring that guy back and ask him, how now are we gonna deal with the changes in floor height. A good framer should have, "danced with the girl he brought to the dance". In other words the floor height should have matched the existing.... period. If he had to shim the floor joist, add shims to the plywood subfloor from the underneath, add plywood to the bottom of the mudsill, whatever to get the floors to plane out. When your remodeling you are not framing on an island. You are "dancin" with the existing house. Be that as it may, Eric VW has what I think at this point is you best option. Pull the nails in the area you have to take down so that you don't hit anything that will wreck your blade. The only other thing we have done when we are following knuckle head framers, is we cut long shims with the worm drive. Like 24" to 30" and we make a taper to build up to the high side. Once we even went back to our shop and cut 2x6 shims on the 6" side with the band saw. It worked but it was a tedious job. We have also had to do a combination of cutting out and building up. In the end it will turn out great. And that little one that is ill will be running around. Stay well.
check, have one! yes, I apologize for the womanspeak description. Will need that too for the low spots Thanks Eric! It will be great I googled "kerf", that is exactly what I meant though didn't know about the perpindicular cuts, thank you.
This entire house is hilarious! The framer is a previous owner, it's a "depression era handyman's special", he used anything on hand and he never threw anything away. Lots of scraps re-used, and most were not the right size or application LOL. The propane lines and electrical in house were scary though, propane is gone and electric was gutted You would have laughed, where the cabinets are in back once was a covered porch someone framed up in the 1960's, that exterior siding, roof and shingles, all still inside the house!! Thus the lower ceiling in the the back of the pic. I forgot to mention, there is another enclosed porch, hilarious framing, complete with cardboard duct taped to the studs (insulation? who knows) Someday I'll tell you about the laundry room and some of the trim Thanks for adding your expertice! PS, lil one fortunately is in good health, besides colds and earaches and minor stuff, but I'd prefer she runs around on flooring instead of subfloor!
Yes, but trust me the price was right It was my husband's "camp", plus he could stay here when the highways got shut down, he was commuting a few hours a day.... The intention was not to move here, but his work, lil ones socialization (daycare) migrated here. It seemed silly for me to stay in our old home without them a couple days a week, so here we are Like I mentioned in another thread, better move than I expected considering our health insurance has increased $600/month.
My house (built in 1879) had a hole in the subfloor right where the main central bearing point is. It looked like it was sagging a little so I opened it up. I found the hole and under the bearing point stuffed with brick chunks, shingles, newspaper, a couple of rocks, all capped off with a piece of aluminum flashing. I went ahead and added a steel beam and stanchion poles under the point load and lifted it back up. Replaced about 100 sq ft of other bad flooring and then sheeted everything with a layer of half inch osb. Good solid, clean floor on my whole first floor for about $500 and a hard days work with a buddy.
The guy I hired did his best, and did apretty good considering the subfloor sagged beyond the elevation difference. He used subfloor and floor leveler over that. After a couple years now of sliding wooden bar stools etc. over the most stressed joint it's now chipping. I'm not too concerned but thinking about ways to smooth the edges for my lil one that is always barefoot (and the animals), and for me scooting the bar stool ( I use it to fold laundry). Epoxy dries too hard, silicon with catch everything including my new shoes (hiking shoes type) as well as sliding the bar stool back and forth. Any ideas that would smooth it out with little cost that does not look too obnoxious like duct tape?
