Hello No Luck, but the Check Engine Light goes on at mile 45 of the highway after a clear Computer Codes instead of at mile 38 during city driving. The codes are the same as last time except 4 that consist of 2 of each P1457 - Evaporator Control System Leakage (Evap Canister Area) P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold B1 P1457 - Evaporator Control System Leakage (Evap Canister Area) P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold B1 Last time there were 3 codes, 2 of P0420 - Catalyst System and 1 of P1457 - Evaporator Control System After replacing the downstream O2 sensor Does that mean something different now? Is one of the Evap System Solenoids next? I do not have a scan tool with a functional tester. Has anyone used this tool to hear if each solenoid clicks to know if they work?
Hello It also could be an Evaporator Vacuum hose under the hood or a bad leaky gas cap. This is a great vid shows what maybe wrong. Has anyone seen this?
I've had vacuum hoses pop off on my Mercury several times...causes numerous error codes like that. Usually happens if I let off of the key too soon when starting and it coughs out the intake instead of starting up...totally my fault when it happens...I know now if it runs funny or throws a code after an incident, look for a vacuum leak under the hood.
Did anyone get a laugh out of the second vid where the guy puts a new gas cap on, starts the car right away and the check Engine light magically is gone? There was no mention of clearing the computer codes with an analyzer and then doing the drive cycle and in my case going a minimum of 45 miles to find out it any fix really works?? LOL
Hello The new evaporator pipe did not fix it! Everything points to a bad aftermarket Honda CRV catalytic converter which we got replaced under the warranty! My neighbor also said his aftermarket Honda catalytic converter did not last long and he was told that the OEM catalytic converter is recommended for this reason!!!!
Ignore. Our 2005 CEL goes on and off often. I erase the CEL with the code reader then the %$#@ light is on again. So: with older vehicles computer run, unless the operation is poor, ignore it. Or , do the Click and Clack electrical tape method over the light.
Erase codes JUST before inspection. With code reader or undo batt cable then re install. Choose a station that may ignore the CEL. Live free or die and move to Maine. Spend $$$$$ replacing O2 sensors AND cat ( not worth the money on older cars ). Jeff says a benjamin for consults.
Can’t just ignore the light in New Hampshire. The station has to plug into the obd port. If the monitors have not passes no sticker.
Hey it's N.H. There must be a station that will pass you for $$$ ( Berlin ? Lancaster ? Franconia ? ) You're Too close to the MASS line. OEM Cats are expensive with no ( none ) guarantee that codes will NOT come up on a read. Computers are never foolproof with thousands of lines of code, firmware, and hardware that can malfunction. So, even if you do the code works specs such as O2 sensors and the right cat, codes can and will come up. Things happen in older vehicles ( and any machine). You never said your CRV year and model; 168K is old for a Honda. My '05 Outback is turning 210K WITH CEL taped; no running problems or oil.
1 the vehicle has to be plugged into state supplied equipment that reads both the vin and for monitor readiness 2 if you pay for a repair at a proper repair facility it should be fixed. Don’t go to back yard Barney 3 buying another vehicle could solve the problem for a while. 4 DMV cares not about begging. the vehicle must be 96 or newer
2002 Honda CRV 4 CYL DOHC with 216,846 miles on it. A few years ago I had an 03 Subaru Outback and they said the cooling system was not large enough for the engine so after overheating the head gasket went. I had it fixed and the head gasket went bad again luckily under warranty so I traded it right after that. :-(
