Ok, I just read the whole thread and got me thinking about the thermometer monitor again. If I read correctly and I wanted to monitor the stove top and the flue I would need two slave units but could have one master unit (wireless) in the bedroom correct? Thanks in advance as I am sure more questions will follow!!
Yes, but switching the master back and forth between the different frequencies of the slaves is a PIA. I got two units, one for the flue temp and one for STT, I find myself adjusting the air by the flue temp and the STT just lands wherever it lands, so much so that I don't even use the STT unit any longer, if I want to know the STT I just shot it with the IR thermometer.
I don't have the wireless deal I was thinking that you had to switch back and forth to check each one I run my stove pretty much by the pipe also, I still look at this stove top unit though, but it's about 60 to 80 degrees low when the stove is hot, alarm is set for 725 but when the alarm goes off thermometer reading will be 660, if I check it with the IR thermometer it will be 725 or higher when the alarm is going off.
Yes wireless unit upstairs in the living room, stove is in the basement, saves a lot of trips up and down.
Was just thinking about the alarm and how I havent had it go off this year. Amazing what one year under your belt of running a stove teaches ya about it. I almost had it go off this weekend but my wife was the alarm and warned me!
So it sounds like one unit for the flue temp would work. I debated on one for the cat and one for the flue. Decisions, decisions!
Same here. Only have a temp probe in the pipe about 18" above the stove. I have the main unit in the bedroom and the wireless in the living room. I only go downstairs to reload now or adjust the air. No more, "hmm what's that smell. .. oh crap the stove is wayy to hot". Only downfall is i think i gained a few lbs haha.
The stove has a probe location already prepped for it on the front but not sure Condar makes one long enough to reach over the cat. I will probably look for a better way to run a probe around the side that looked better than all the wires hanging out the front above the door. When installing in the flue, what is the recommended height above the stove for the probe? I seem to remember 18" above the tee. My set up is rear vented to a tee and a 6" vertical run to the ceiling box transition where it goes to the class A pipe. It sounds like it is too close for clearances but they are all exceeded by several inches and built with non-combustible materials. I may have to attach a picture when I get home to show it better.
Condar makes one that will work. It's a 4" probe....can't remember the number (search forums for it). I installed a TC probe with PID digital monitor for cat and flue temps. Also put a twisted wire TC on the stove top. Whole setup was less than $100 (3 PID controllers and 3 sensors) with beeper and siren alarms. I use an old cellphone as an IP webcam and can monitor it anywhere my wifi reaches. Wife has gotten in the habit of watching it, too. She can use her phone, laptop or tablet. It has taught her how to efficiently and safely run the stove and has alerted to over temp conditions on windy nights.
MountainMan, Early on I had emailed Woodstock and they said that they did not have a provider for the cat temp probe. I may have to check back into that and check the overall length required to get out over the cat when engaged.
I have the Condar 3-12-1 and a thermocouple probe. The Condar will fit into the threaded hole, but TC is a few thousandths larger. They will extend just over the edge of the cat. Any longer and they will be in the way when the cat is moving.
Just did a quick search on eBay for "Condar 3-12-1" and 3 results popped up. Looks like one can be had for around $25-30.
So, is the buzzer output adequate to run an actuator of some sort? Maybe to close off the inlet air in an overtemp? It wouldn't help with an open door though. Edit: I see that it is 12v, 1A. I'm going to do a little research ...
I find on eBay 12v door actuators, basically simple solenoids. Their stroke is very short, but they could maybe be used to release a spring, which closes the air valve. Thinking ...
