Help with fresh air vent install - Whitfield Advantage II-T C FS

Send a PM via this link:http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/conversations/add?to=Snowy+Rivers she can make those old whits dance and sing. She burns hazelnut shells in hers.

 

Works for me.

 

It looks like a prior owner tried to make it direct but didn't quite get there.

 

This 2nd pic shows 2 things: 1. the other hole I found (to the left of the circled area) and 2. what appears to be a high temp cut-off switch (circled and labeled 'B') in yet another smaller hole. Sorry for the fuzzy pics - the camera wouldn't focus that close up.


More likely a low temp no close on rise proof of fire or convection fan switch if it is in the combustion air path. Hi limits are normally in the convection air path.

 

I found that by removing the ash removal tray under the burn pot and looking into the tube where the air comes in there is a hole that goes down. I can just barley reach it with my finger. Since the air tube is already at the lowest point within the stove it can only come from underneath within the pedestal. There are no vents or holes in the pedestal so I guess I'll have to take the whole damm thing apart to see what kind of ducts are under there.

So this means a complete cleaning before I do this. I'll have to lay the stove on its back to remove the pedestal and risk damaging the stove. And with the luck I'm having I'll find it's just a sealed tube. Maybe I'll learn why it was designed this way.

And, yeah - the smoke bomb was not a good idea. It took the wife all day to clean the mess AND have hot, fresh supper on the table when I got home from the pub.

 

The air does go into the area in question, it just has a baffle in that little box thing.

If you need a fresh air kit to satisfy code, just buckle it to the round pipe in the back of the stove

The air goes into the cabinet and then is sucked around the baffle and into the area under the burn pot.

The reason for the baffle is not negate any real possibilities of a fire somehow crawling back into the mechanical cabinet or farther yet.

The temp switch you referenced is a normally closed snap switch, and will not open unless there is heat (Should not be) in that area.

If a "backfire" occurred the switch opens shutting off the stove.

There are two of these snaps.
One is the one you circled and the other is on the hot air bonnet and it will shut off the stove if it gets too hot (Room air fan failure or overfire)

 

Thanks for your detailed reply, Snowy.

If I understand correctly it is not a closed system - meaning once the cold air enters the cabinet it is not contained inside any kind of tube or duct, but rather mixes with 'house' air. As there are many vents in the cabinet it will still draw previously heated air from the room. Then, after going through the burn-pot, will eventually be directed outdoors.

I took a match, lit it and then blew it out so it would smoke. Holding that smoking match to the fresh air vent in the back of the stove provided absolutely no evidence of any kind of air-draw at all.

Do you know where the opening for the air that enters the burn-pot is located, and can a flex-duct be installed to allow in only fresh, cold, outside air?

To clarify your second statement above - it's not for code - I want this to save energy and money.

Thanks for responding!