Heatilator door gasket

I went and grab my calipers, the original gasket is definitely not 3/4. Looks like I'll order 1 inch as the stores around me don't carry that size.

I know there's two other folks on here with the same stove. Figured they replaced there's and had similar problems?

 

Just my observance, nothing more. Clearance to combustibles in any owners manual is a suggestion and a MINIMUM distance. With any stove that contains fire, more is always better. When I installed mine, I built a brick base that extends 2 feet out in front of my unit and we don't have carpeting, we have hardwood floors.

I would assume that removing washer or 2 would be easier than using a larger diameter rope gasket because the channel in he door is cast to accept the recommended size and increasing the diameter would make it difficult for the gasket to lay in the channel properly and that brings up another point. I see the remains of red RTV on the rope. Red RTV is only good for 750 degrees max. When renewing a rope gasket you should always use black refractory cement to adhere the gasket to the door. RTV is incapable of withstanding the heat of operation which can exceed 750 degrees on the door casting itself and why when you purchase a new rope gasket kit, it will include black refractory cement.

Far as removing the door latch, soaking it with a penetrant like PBlaster and then using a light duty impact wrench will break the nut free and again, any work done to the door should be off the stove on a bench, not on the stove and that includes replacing the gasket. That fuzzy rope end don't work either. The gasket must be cut square or at an angle and overlayed. Fuzzy ends allow room air to enter the firebox and upset the air to fuel ratio, which on a biomass stove is critical to efficient combustion,

I don't know who your insurance carrier is but I can tell you that if you have a loss due to fire and the adjuster sees how close the unit is to a flammable substance (your carpet), they will deny the claim.

You may never have an issue but in your case, having one could be very costly. Only been dealing with bio mass stoves for 20+ years and only suggesting. What you do is 100% your business. How you approach issues and how I approach them and solve them are 2 different things. Experience is a good teacher if you are willing to use it.

I see you are in Michigan like I am. If you lived close, I'd be happy to help you with your door issue. If not, have fun.

Still want to know what 'Turds' are??? Never heard of that brand.

 

The nut comes right off, the boss will not move. I've soaked it many times, and used torches. The 1 inch rope actually fits fine and it's what came with the stove brand new. The factory also is who used orange rtv. The ends are stringing only after me removing it. The current gasket is has zero strings and I used black rope gasket stuff when replacing.

The stove was inspected by my insurance company after install.

Magic turds = magic spark. I'm not a pro pellet fan.

I Amazoned a new 1 inch rope gasket. I'll put it on and see how the door seals. I'm hopeful that the door with have a nice tight fit again.

 

Well, the spacer is steel and the door is cast iron so it's not welded to the door because you don't weld steel to cast which tells me it's stuck on there probably with rust or crud from ash. Far as red RTV goes, i's really not capable of withstanding the heat of combustion, don't much care what the OEM did, it's not right (maybe they ran short of refractory cement when they built yours, I have no idea). Like the mod said in previous posts, don't stretch the gasket when installing it as it reduces the diameter and again, remove the door from the unit to install the gasket and do it with the door laying FLAT, face down. How I approach and solve issues nd how you do it are 2 different things. Just extending my experiences after 20+ years of dealing with biomass stoves.

Far as loss payable from an incident involving a biomass stove. That is between your carrier and you. Just an observance on my part. I know how insurance works and payment of claims. I've had a few concerning farm equipment and rental properties. I pay out many thousands of dollars in insurance premiums yearly and get nothing in return except bs. At least under RTF, they cannot cancel me for any reason. In Michigan, insurance companies are sneaky. I don't know of any carrier (least not mine) that would do a loss payable concerning a loss due to a solid fuel burning appliance without a fight. Why my rental agreement specifically state no space heaters (like kerosene heaters) can be used in my rental units. My carrier frowns upon that. I carry loss insurance on all my rental properties. The contents is up to the renter. I encourage them to insure their contents but if they don't, oh well. It's in my lease agreement but it's voluntary on their part.

Again, what I comment on comes from personal experience. Nothing more. When I comment on something it's designed to make your experience easier. If you heed my advice or not is entirely up to you.

 

One thing I might add and that is... Is the front of the stove warped? Lay straight edge across it and see. That could very well be your sealing issue. I had that happen to the one in the house and had to heat the front sheet and weld in a length of angle iron across the top of the door opening, no easy task considering the confined space. When steel gets hot and cools over and over again, it moves. All steel does that, it' a matter of physics. Why many units are cast iron because cast iron resists thermal expansion and contraction much better than sheet steel.

If your door was steel verses cast, it would warp almost immediately.