Hearthstone green mountain 60 sucks

Put a box fan in corner and blow cold air to stove

 

Thanks. Perhaps you could better explain trimming the baffles. I’m not quite seeing it in my head by your description


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Gotcha


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For those reading this into the future…

I’m sorry, but if a window is near the stove (or far way…doesn’t matter) and is opened some and the stove still isn’t operating correctly, regardless of brand of stove, then an outside air connection isn’t going to help. Something else is the cause of the issue. That is called guessing and hoping.

Cold air drops to the floor from any open window and will travel towards the stove as part of natural convection currents.

The point: Look for the cause as being something else besides needing an outside air connection. Again, if an open window doesn’t help your stove draft better then the house is already leaking plenty of air into the home…enough for proper draft. Look elsewhere for the cause of stove mot running correctly.

 

Yeah I’d like to know what they ended up doing. I feel the OAK prob was not needed. Adding extra 2’ of chimney and using good dry wood prob fixes all the issues. My guess anyway.

 

The outside air kit was not added. The two feet of extra chimney was. My parents are going to get into “better” wood that isn’t so soft and so on. We took down a few dead ash that had a summer to finish seasoning and are more solid then last years wood.

I think giving the baffle a trim will help with the smoke spillage during starting and reloading.

Only time will tell


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What do you mean giving the baffle a trim? I'm not opposed to making adjustments, even on OEM parts, but trimming the baffle... I would think that is something you don't need to do.

 

By design, there should be no need to trim the baffle, or else every stove they sold was wrong and needing the same. I highly doubt this is the case.

 

I agree. Now I understand the Green Mountain is a newer stove and maybe it has some quirks, but there's another thread going about the GM 60 and the original poster is more than happy with it's performance. So, yeah i think there could be some other issues at play... wood, draft, etc. I'm interested in the thread because I bought a Hearthstone Manchester that I need to install this fall.

 

Be sure and install a stove pipe damper…whether you need it or not. It’ll be there if and when you need it. If you don’t need it, simply leave it open all the time, but don’t make the mistake that others do.

 

Did not have a damper at my old house for my Oslo 500... most people don't have one on their chimneys, right?

 

Most newer stoves don’t need a damper because they are tighter then the older stoves and the intake regulates air flow without slowing down the exhaust. You’ll only need a damper if the intake on low still and she still cranks out the heat.


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I don’t agree with any of that, but believe what you wish.

 

What stove do you have?

 

Should I list them all?

 

Most newer stoves, noncats especially, are the opposite of air tight. They purposely have tons of holes and openings wide open to allow lots of air to keep combustion temperatures way up in order to be clean burning. Folks on this forum and others have gotten quite the lesson with learning how to reel these stoves in to gain control back. Getting proper draft is the best way to regain control and that is best done with a key damper if your chimney system drafts too hard. It's usually not needed with low drafting chimneys that meet the specification of the stove. Even if it's not needed, the key damper doesn't hurt anything and can be very helpful when you have a chimney fire or outside temperatures or wind cause temporary overdraft and your stove goes nuclear.

 

^^^ I agree probably because my natural draft is ridiculous.