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Harman p43 5 blink status light

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by D-Mac0211, Jan 17, 2018.

  1. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather

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    I keep a small tee with my draft meter, and a small section of 1/8" hose.....I take the reading at the vacuum switch usually, which is probably the best place to take it. Remove the tubing off the switch, put the small piece on, then the tee, then connect the vac hose to the other tee leg, and the draft meter to the other tee leg. This way youre taking a reading right at the switch....seeing the pressure the switch sees, rather than the firebox pressure, which isn't really helpful if your vac line splits or plugs.
     
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  2. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    But would the reading be the same at either location?
     
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  3. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Does the stove still have to be cold to do it then?
     
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  4. badbob

    badbob

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    Hook it into the vac switch,like lousy said,hose and cheep plastic t from auto parts store.Stove can be warm,not hot,no coals inside,is what I recommend.
     
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  5. badbob

    badbob

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    I see you said "last season" you did not clean the flue pipe?Has it been cleaned since then?That horizontal section could be 1/2 plugged,being that far from the stove.
     
  6. Lousyweather

    Lousyweather

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    maybe not, but the only reading that really matters is at the switch
     
  7. ttdberg

    ttdberg Pellet Pig

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    D-Mac since you’re going to be working on the stove this weekend, checking draft - can you also do a full venting run cleaning and verification? The stove pipe as well as the chimney it vents into, top to bottom? If you can, great. It rules one more easy thing out. Do the draft test first though. That way if you do find something during the cleaning, you have a before and after draft reading to compare.
     
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  8. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Yup. I’m going to do a draft test first, then clean all of it then do a draft test again. Then probably change out the burn pot after all of it. I took out my esp probe last weekend and cleaned it off. Gonna take my pipe and reseal all the joints and pipes, put some self tappers in it. I got a soot buster for pellet stoves so it will definitely get it clean
     
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  9. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Got a -.375 for the low and -.52 for high so I’m dead on at the switch.
     
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  10. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Igniter is 52.5 ohms. Just replaced like 2-3 weeks ago with a Harman oem one
     
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  11. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Replaced the burn pot and put 2 burn pot gaskets on it because the back of my stove is warped
     
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  12. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Took and cleaned out my piping and everything. Wasn’t horrible but the sooteater that I bought worked amazingly. So after I siliconed all the joints on the pipe and replaced the glass gasket my father in law and I put everything back together. I have about 1/2-1 thread sticking out on the stud for the burn pot since I now have 2 gaskets in it. Idk if I was supposed to cut out the holes on the gaskets but I left them covered since they don’t really do anything. Put the dip switches back to program default (off,off,off,) since I’m thinking that’s the stock setting. Got it all together and put her in test again to check the draft. From the switch I got the same as I did before I cleaned everything so that’s a good sign. So then I put it on room temp and hit auto on the igniter and there was a little more pellets in the burn pot then normal but it started in prob 4 min at most. So that’s a good sign. The real test will be when it has to start up again. I’ll see how it goes I guess. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has tried to help me with the problem.
     
  13. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    She starts like a charm now. It’s at the stock +21 for the ignition cycle and it still seems like kinda a lot of pellets in the pot so I might adjust back to the -21 but she has a nice flame off the ignition and starts in about 7 min from the time from the auger starts till I have a flame. Not to shabby. Lw I think those 2 gaskets made a huge difference. The bottom left of my stock burn pot was definitely warped you can actually see it. I’ll take pics later and post them to show. The new one is a little warped too because of the welds but it’s the opposite way of the other one and the opposite way of the stove
     
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  14. ttdberg

    ttdberg Pellet Pig

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    Glad to hear it’s all sorted out. Would love to see pictures of the warping you mentioned.
     
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  15. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    So the weird thing is now all of a sudden it seems like the right side isn’t burning as good as the left. It also still seems like there are to many pellets being put into the burn pot on start up. It’s at off,off, on now which is -21 seconds should I try moving to off,on,off which is -43 seconds to get it to light quicker hopefully? The pellets are getting fed till they are over the the 3rd maybe second line of holes from the edge on the burn pot. So by the time they light they are already about to almost roll out of the pot. I’m using stove chows right now so they are a hardwood pellet but does that matter?
     
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  16. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    As good as I could get for pictures.
     

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  17. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    Only thing I’m wondering is on the new gaskets idk if I was supposed to cut out the 2 holes or not. I didn’t cut them out because if figured they didn’t do anything.
     
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  18. badbob

    badbob

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    Calm down,have a beer,pellet stoves are not space shuttles,they do strange stuff(not gonna get into it)run it for a week or two.
     
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  19. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    For some reason I’m getting this unless I move the pellets after it lights
     

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  20. D-Mac0211

    D-Mac0211

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    I just don’t get it. It ran perfect earlier. Unless it’s because I’m running stove chows not besides FSU
     
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