I am getting ready to order the 36" Granberg mill, as well as the prefab aluminum rails. I am all set with a saw, but I have a novice question. -Assuming the logs are clean, how will the chain hold up on Frozen hardwoods? Hickory, Maple, Cherry and Ash to be specific. I am wondering if I should hold off on spending the money until spring makes sense or not. We are at that onset of the frost period, so it seems like a good question to ask. Thanks
I didn't even see this until just now; but of course, we've already talked about it. Frozen logs are a little bit harder, but not too much. Nothing that 880 can't handle.... The harder the wood, generally, the more often you'll need to sharpen the chain. But I wouldn't let that stop you if you have the ambition and a halfway decent day for working outside. If you had to roll the log or re-position it for your cuts, you might pick up some extra dirt due to the ice. I like to keep the dirty side on the "operator's side" (left) of the log, that way you won't drag the dirt through the cut so much. But that's always a secondary concern - first and foremost for me is orienting the log "the best way" to get the lumber I want out of it.
I was just thinking today as I was cutting wood, how nice it is to cut wood when its cold outside. It was 11 degrees her this morning, gt up to the mid 20's at noon and was just right. Logging is a cold weather season for sure. I was physically cutting trees into logs, but considering all the wrestling that is done on a mill (we have a few of them too), I would much rather do it in the winter. Maybe its just me, but go for it I say.
I would love heated grips as I hate wearing gloves. Much below 20 and I have to, but I feel my grip is slippery. I bought some expensive work gloves with the rubber grips and bump pads, but even though my hands are warm I feel like my grip is lessened. Good with the bad right.
Guess I will order the mill setup soon. Just not sure what direction I want to go, Granberg, logosol, etc
If you were thinking about something in the logosol w/ stand price range, consider the Norwood portamill as well.
I can understand that. I am cutting Hemlock Logs now and the in gloves get soaked in short order from the snow, and the thick waterproof ones are cumbersome when measuring out my log lengths. I am forever taking them on and off. I am not sure about going gloveless though. I tried that out of frustration yesterday when it was warm out, and it did not work well. After 20 minutes my hands were getting sore. But I am a sissy I guess because even in the summer I wear gloves.
I was thinking about this thread today as I was logging (more Hemlock logs). This sawmill likes long logs (18-52 feet) so there is no picking them up with my Forestry Trailer. That means dragging them on the ground, but they won't take logs with dirty ends either so I was some glad my skid trails were frozen. Now it depends on how you log of course; if you have a log trailer and never skid a log on the ground you don't have to worry about this, but in Maine, on frozen ground, you get a lot cleaner logs in the winter. In fact even if I know I won't be sawing lumber until Spring, I'll still cut my logs and skid them in the winter so they will be clean (unless of couse I am cutting short logs then I will use my forestry trailer). I have heard it said that mud covered logs will 'wash of with the rain", but I have never found this to be true. Underneath is always muddy and that is far worse for your saw then frozen wood in my opinion. But as Shawn was getting at, you want to do anything possible to keep that saw from dulling.
Until I get a saw with heated grips, I bring 2-3 pair of gloves. I'll also put wet gloves near the cylinder head of my atv. That helps, but after I soak 2 pair of gloves, I'm getting low on energy.
