In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fisher insert.

Discussion in 'Non-EPA Woodstoves and Fireplaces' started by jewilson, Aug 29, 2021.

  1. jewilson

    jewilson

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    The damper is in a fixed position. There are brackets that attach on each end the rod goes through. They are similar flat brackets with a 1” hole for the rod. They attach to the stove with 3/16” self tapping screws. This allows the damper to swing freely. The damper is fixed in position with a small chain that comes three the face shroud
    On the right side.


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  2. jewilson

    jewilson

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    When I get a chance I will put the surround on and hook up the damper to show how everything hooks up.


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  3. PA Mountain Man

    PA Mountain Man

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    I don't have the experience of WeldrDave or Coaly or others with Fisher stoves. But I have found that a damper on the stove is not needed. The draft control knobs on the door control how much air goes up the chimney. In the past our camp members would open the draft knobs and try to regulate draft with the damper. The creosote buildup was bad. Too much cold air going in. After loading the stove on a good bed of coals, get the flue temp up and a good burn going, this takes about a half hour depending on the wood you are using. You can then close the draft knobs to about 1.5 turns open. It takes practice. All woods and weather conditions are different.
    IMHO, skip the damper and weld a 6" adapter pipe to the stove and connect your stainless to that.
    A baffle will make a big difference. I used 3 pieces of 4" x 1.5" heavy channel and cut firebrick at an angle to support them.
     
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  4. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    I tend to agree...
     
  5. jewilson

    jewilson

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    No damper would make my life simpler. I’ll wait to see if Coaly or Weilder Dave chimes in. Having no access to a weilder at this time I may have to install a cast iron boot to the top with a 6” outlet. Those things are expensive though.


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  6. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I was going here! :yes:
     
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  7. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I have installed 3 Fishers (wood stoves) not inserts and none of them have an exit pipe Damper. You have draft control on your doors and that is more than sufficient to control air flow. I have to agree with the above mentioned and disassemble the damper or leave in the full open position. My opinion here. :yes:
     
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  8. jewilson

    jewilson

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    I was thinking the the same thing. My mother heated her whole downstairs with a mama bear stove. That was her only source of heat for years. It had no damper and a 6” pipe. That thing could run your out of the house. Thank gang for helping me figure this out. You all are welcome to sit by my fire anytime.


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  9. Coaly

    Coaly

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    A flue damper is not a stove control, it is a chimney control to slow the velocity of rising gasses. It is used for an over drafting chimney. Partially closing reduces NET draft, which AFFECTS the stove by slowing the incoming air with oxygen.

    The stove model has nothing to do with when a damper is needed. Antique dampers have a larger hole in center so they can be closed fully and were sized to the draft required for a coal stove.

    A double door stove used with open door burning with a screen in place requires a flue damper since with doors open, the damper is the only control to slow the fire by slowing draft.
    With fire established, and screen in place, slowly close damper until smoke rolls in at top of door. Open slightly to evacuate smoke, which is the slowest burn setting you will achieve with doors open.

    It is best to have a flue damper in any installation. It is a variable resistance if needed. Wide open is the same as not being there. In the case of a chimney fire, glass breakage, or a log stuck in the door getting it in, it becomes the emergency brake of sorts to slow the fire.
     
  10. Warner

    Warner

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    And perhaps incorporate a damper to the flange. The rod for the control would stick out and get hot but could be operated with a glove.
    ^ this.
     
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  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Even though I don't have one now, I like having a manual/key damper in the stove pipe, but none of the modern stoves come with, or even recommend them for the install. Plus, I've noticed that when draft gets real high, closing the damper fully only knocks it down a bit, often times it still remains "high", so I really question if in the event of a chimney fire, a damper would do much (and I think that's what everybody is dancing around here) They certainly aren't needed on a stove with good air controls on it...but, with that said, some of the newest (EPA 2020 cert) stoves are so free flowing on the secondary air that I'm sure they could benefit from being able to control chimney draft...I know the automatic chimney draft control that is had by using a barometric damper on the stovepipe of my Kuuma VF makes a big difference in stack temps (and before anyone gets their knickers in a twist, the VF comes with a Fields baro from the factory)
     
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  12. Coaly

    Coaly

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    I had an issue with my Kitchen Queen I never saw happen with any stove and was glad to have the flue damper.

    My Queen has a 1/4 inch thick steel ring welded to stove top for the outlet. It is not a piece of pipe welded to stove top. When it was rolled round, the ends didn't come together at the seam. They were about 1/4 inch off. And when the pipe was put in, the leak into the pipe at the connector was enough to allow the oxygen entering pipe to ignite smoke particles and maintain a secondary combustion in the pipe. I noticed a rise in exhaust temperature, turned down the stove to no avail, and then notice the red glow of the black pipe above the collar! The flue damper slowed the draft and it went out. Closing the air intake would not have solved the issue immediately.

    The other thing I use a flue damper for is when starting a Box type stove, or deep narrow single door Fisher, you can get too much kindling and have it roar up the stack when starting. This is when you want the heat IN the stove heating the larger pieces to start, not up the stack. So if you over do the kindling and it roars, tilt the damper just enough to take the roar away and it will start just as fast retaining more heat in the stove. Once the roar from kindling is gone, open it back up to bring up to temp normally.
     
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  13. jewilson

    jewilson

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    I’m going to figure out some way to use that damper. It never occurred to me that a damper could be an emergency bailout as Coaly explained. When the parts get here I’ll come up with a solution for isolating the damper rod from any air leakage. Thought maybe someone in this blog has had the same problem and discovered a fix for this problem. When I work it out I will let you know and include pictures so it will help the next person who wants to use a Fisher insert with a damper and a 8” flue
    Liner. Stand by.


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  14. jewilson

    jewilson

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    After giving much though and research I’ve decided to remove the damper from the top of the stove and put a lnline damper inside the liner. I can install the insert and drill a hole through the surround and extend a rod to actuate the damper. To connect this up to a 8” stainless liner can a I use a heavy gauge steel stovepipe or buy something like the duravent 8” damper (which has poor reviews).
    I m not sure what I need between the insert boot and appliance adapter to hook the damper up properly so any input would be appreciated.


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  15. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    If you are going to put up the surround panel, any pipe behind that has to be stainless.
     
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  16. jewilson

    jewilson

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    See. That’s what I need to know. The only thing I can find is for a duravent double wall pipe with the damper pre installed. I found on a old post about notching out for the damper rod but I can’t see how notching my north line express cast iron boot adapter will create a adequate seal for the damper rod. Thank so much for that tidbit of information


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  17. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Have a link to this? Or a pic of it?
     
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  18. jewilson

    jewilson

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    [​IMG]
    This is the north line adapter on the adapter I made. Every thing is sealed and bolted down and the damper works as it was designed to.


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  19. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Looks AWESOME!!! :cool::yes:
     
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  20. jewilson

    jewilson

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    [​IMG]


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