Update Got the little baby back from the weld shop. They welded in my top exit and filled in the back. It doesn't look show quality persay but I think it should do. They also cut me a 9x13 piece of plate for the baffle - they only had 1/4" on hand so I'll have to try that for now. The shop I took it to has been around forever. Most of their equipment is WWII. They do everything from weld up a broken swingset to repair heavy yellow iron for the State. I found it funny that all three guys working there couldn't believe how heavy the little stove was - and I didn't even have the door on! "I don't know where you found this thing guy, but it sure is well built" The original outlet pipe from the back was a 6" OD. The previous owner had a 90 slid onto it. I had them weld in a 6" ID pipe - mimickig my new Buckstove 74. I think they do this so any creosote falls back in the stove. I still need to drill three holes in to be able to secure the flue pipe. In my last minute Christmas shopping extravaganza, I tried 2 different tractor supplies for new firebrick. One store had 5 bricks left and the other was completely out! Can you guys please quit buying all the bricks up Only thing is, the my were asking $2.99 per brick at both of my local stores. Seems kind of steep considering I need 15 plus some extras to play around with baffle positioning. I figured I'd take the diamond cutting wheel and cut a few in different shapes to achive most effective burn. I also couldn't resist TSC's little grate. It was half off so I figured I'd pick it up even if it is junk. Fits perfectly! How do you rate their weld job WeldrDave?
Looking good. I think I’d leave the grate out but I’m interested how it works out for you good. Good progress. Might check Lowe’s or Home Depot for Fire bricks if you have them in your area
I don't think I've posted this before, but I worked at Hesston Corp. when they were making the Fisher stove. For maybe two weeks, I was welding the piece that I think held the door gasket. There were two of us doing this, and from there, as I recall the front was tacked on the firebox. Then it rolled along a long set of rollers with people on each side welding their little bit. At the end of this maybe 100 foot long line a completely welded Fisher would roll off. I was only doing that job a short while. I wish I could remember how many stoves we could turn out in a day. It was an unbelievable number, so if I could remember you wouldn't believe me anyway. I do remember that the people I normally welded with looked down on those working on the Fisher line and I was disgraced for having to go there.
If I remember correctly it was a "u" shaped piece of metal that was notched so it could be folded into a rectangle or square. It definitely was a learned skill to quickly fold it and tack it down. I have always taken pride in my ability to out work about anyone. The other guy doing this same job was an old man (maybe in his 40s). I could never do as many as he did. As the stoves rolled down the line there little stations with dividers or curtains to prevent flash burn.
Yes, it was channel iron and "no" gasket. I've seen some "VERY" nice stove's come from some places and some real $#!TTY ones also. I happen to have 2 Hesston stoves and a couple Dunn Brothers. Welders came and went in some of those companies. I have rewelded quite a few that were just seriously "JACKED UP" . And how some got past a Q&A is beyond me I'd also like to know how many got scrapped.
I think they did a wonderful job! Someone has some nice MIG welding skills and it looks super. You'll be fine with that! Take a little cold chisel and scrape the ball boogers off around the welds unless you have already done it before you paint. They'll pop right off with very little effort.
Tractor supply or even Ace hardware has fire bricks! Rutland.com has them you can order. Rutland® Replacement Fire Brick (604) - Fire Logs & Fire Starters - Ace Hardware
Thanks WeldrDave! I got I'll the boogers off and got him all wire wheeled. Got the screw holes drilled too. The old bricks were a battle to get out but luckily I have a plethora of masonry tools. I did end up getting bricks from down at my local burner supply store - which just so happens to be Brunks Stove - home of the Brunco! They used to make the Brunco stoves in house there which is only a mile or two from my house. I probably could have got the bricks a bit cheaper from a big box store but it's good to support local sometimes. I appears that I will be doing quite a bit of work with the diamond blade this afternoon. There are quite a few special cuts to be made to get him relined. Question: how important is it that the bricks are TIGHTLY fit? Obviously I'm not going to leave 1" gaps, but I have a feeling that it will be hard to keep it as tight as the factory fit. I'm thinking I will end up with a few that are 1/4" but I will try to keep it to 1/16 as much as possible.
That's the best there! No more than 1/4", some ash will get between them and stiffen them up.! Do you remember how they came out? I have the diagram for them but it's easy, Back first, sides, then the floor. Floor is last! That locks them all in.
Made some more progress even with all the Christmas festivities going on. Painted and re-bricked. It's not perfect but I think I did a decent job considering it's my first time. I even got my baffle plate in. As I mentioned before, my baffle is only 1/4" plate but if it warps, I'll seek out a replacement 5/16". I used Stove Bright satin black 1990 paint. It may not be factory but I really like the satin compared to the flat. Now I just need some high temp silver It's just a garage stove that will rust again in no time but for the minimal effort required, I figure it's worth the time. Waiting on my menards rebate in the mail so I can go and grab the chimney pipe and get this little bear cooking!! Question - where can I acqire new door pins and what is the best way to remove them? Mine are a bit mushroomed and my OCD says they need replaced. Also, what is the best way to remove the old ones without damaging the cast door? Lastly, where did you say the spring door handles were available from? Thanks again Dave for all your help!
Here? ^ ^ ^ Looking good BTW...if that 1/4" plate warps, I'd find a piece of stainless...that will hold up gooder...
First, "VERY NICE JOB"!!! Door hinge pins are easy and e-bay has them on there from time to time. I have a set if your in dire need but I can get them also. The spring handle is from Woodmans stove. I'll shoot the link on here in a bit. To get the hinge pins out, use a sander, grinder or anyhting to smooth them out, spray a little WD40 or some kind of lube on them and "LIGHTLY" tap them out. They will come, be patient.
Thanks Dave! Merry Christmas! Wishing I had it running for this week - almost going sub zero here in NE Ohio
Finally had some time to work on the project. Good progress tonight. Got some heavy duty sheet metal with ceramic 1" spacers as a heat shield. Also made a homemade rafter heat shield made to the exact specs of the $15 piece once I realized I forgot to purchase one. I think mine is nicer than the prefab sellkirk unit. All I have to do yet tomorrow is cut the hole, install the flashing, and put up the chimney. Question: what holds up the class A pipe? Is all the weight supposed to rest on the single wall pipe down to the stove or can I secure it some how so it doesn't fall? Can't seem to find that part in the instructions.
