First Fire In New Stove Guidelines Please

It's hard to say what the relationship between the temp difference (inside/outside) and draft strength is, as I'm not sure it's linear. It is noticeable though.

For example, my chimney height is 10 feet. I can start a fire in any weather I think requires a fire. I have started it in 50 F weather to chase away the cold of a rain. The draft is very sluggish, but there's not a great heating need at such a temp. It improves noticeably around 32 F, while still being sluggish to start.

Around 18 F, I would describe start up draft as adequate, and down at -4 F, quite good. Dropping into lower temps can only be describes as turbo charged. But the bottom line in any temp, is once the flue probe hits a decent temperature, the stove runs fine.

 

First off, I never said I had excellent results, I said I got it up to temp after 6 tries.

The 30-NC also requires 15' chimney system, as measured from the bottom of the stove to the top of the chimney, as clearly marked in their diagram on page 13 of the 30-NC manual (yea, bad on them on not providing the same clear picture in the Madison stove manual). When I fired up the stove with the 4' chimney, it was around 85-90 degrees outside, making getting a good draft even worse, if that's possible.

The reason I was able to do it was because a) I listened to the experts (i.e. the ESW tech guy and b) I used known dry wood.

To reiterate, if I can do it with a 4' chimney system and outside temps of +85 degrees, a 9'-10' chimney should be easy as pie.

Of course, the bigger question is: why do you have a non-code compliant chimney system?

 

Maybe we should just close this thread.

 

This thread has too much greatness to close.

 

Well, it just seemed like people were getting upset with me.

 

Well, this is my second season on the path to enlightenment, learning " The Way of The Stove" if you will. I am at one with my inner fire triangle.

I'll be publishing a few novels shortly, "Way of the Draft" and "White Poplar for the Soul"

 

Moisture meters are close enough. This is a draft problem. Other madison users have said the stove needs good draft somewhere else.

Kimberly just keep plugging away till you can get more pipe up there.

 

I would be interested in a copy of each one also. But, with the layoff and everything else that has been going on, it just isn't in the cards now.
How much will you be charging for each one?

 

Wow, I started reading this thread at 10PM ET and just finished.

My thoughts. Load that stove FULL. Get some coals in it first but after that let it rip, that class A is rated for crazy hot chimney fires. Its going to make some funny noises along the way, especially as you cook off the creosote that has undoubtedly formed from a bunch of cold fires. What are the temps on the chimney thermometer lately, 800F is the upper limit..... When you get to 550-600 on the chimney temp start to lower the draft, you may need to leave the door cracked until the pipe hits 350-400 to establish draft. Its really not rocket science. The chimney has to be HOT to draft and from the sounds of it hot has not been what you had. Have you even seen a Secondary burn yet, as in fire coming out of the pipes on the top....?

And yooperdave is SOOOOO right with wet wood. Soooooo right

 

I don't have any scraps; any timber I have I need to keep for projects.

 

These things take time. Would be a heck of a concept though for a small gift shop book. A paragraph or two per page of something stove/wood/chainsaw related, with pretty pictures. If artisan firewood is a thing, why not? lol

Only on FHC

 

I asked.....he said Canadian money isn't really "money" and hung up. (yeah, not really)