I have several snatch blocks already but I was cautioned about using too big of a groove. My bull ropes make the winch line look like sewing thread. I have no experience with the synthetic line at all and I don't want to mess it up.
Mine is for about the same size rope, so l think l'm good. It's bolted to the backblade so it's a pretty solid mount. 5min on & off. I'm hopefull this is a very productive set up.
What’s the winch rated to pull? See if it’ll out pull the ol’ M . I’ve got a soft spot too.... amateur cutter Next thing weld some hooks along the edge of the box so you can hook up your logs to it for skidding once you get them to the tractor. Did you build that three point or buy it somewhere? I’ve always thought about one on one of mine just never pulled the trigger.....
If that box blade works as good as I hope I'll add hooks etc to it for sure. As for the three point, it came as an aftermarket setup with the tractor, loader also. The three point is a really well built set up that I can't remember the name of right now. I'll try to remember to look & post back tomorrow. I too love the vintage tractors, especially Farmall/IH. I grew up running those things & never lost my love for them. They'll do a lot of work if you know how to use em.
I think the Saginaw 3-pt is well-regarded for the Farmalls. Lots of info at the Farmall discussion archives at Yesterday's Tractors.
Ford Tractors used to have a conversion for 4 wheel drive! My Grandfather was going to buy one at the local dealer, but never did. He always regretted that! They also had a Fordson corkscrew type of flotation device for snow and water, but it was not a big seller. My Grandfather did not have that either, but he did have a set of half-tracks that worked exceptionally well at using a 2 wheel drive tractor to get wood out of the woods.
I don't like the rust issue, but a person cannot beat the price of calcium-chloride filled tires. Pay $10 for a 25 pound of Calcium-Chloride and mix it with water and pump it into the tire and get instant unfreezable ballasted tires. That is nice. I am not sure what beet juice costs, but heard it was really high. Rust is an issue, but I have patched both my tractor rims for very little money. I run tubes obviously, but the valve stem can leak and the rim will rust out around the valve stem hole over time. To fix that it was just a matter of taking a 4 inch cut off wheel and cutting off the rotted rim back to good steel, then adding some 11 gauge steel around the rim where it is rotted out, then weld it in. Then I made sure all the welds and steel was smooth so as not to cut the new tube, and I was back in business. For the outside (and just for looks), you could fill in the void with Bondo, sand it smooth, and paint it. That would look brand new without a lot of fuss. My dealer quoted me $2000 for (2) rear tires, new tubes, new beet juice and labor. My fix cost $25...
I respectfully disagree with that. It took 20 years to rust out the rims of my tractor to the point I needed to fix it, then $25 in cost to make the fix. At $25 and 2 hours of labor per rim, a tractor owner can fix a lot of rims for what beet-juice costs.
Calcium chloride needs to cover the rim completely in order to prevent corrosion, if the steel is submerged it's sealed off from the oxygen. It's also best to put tube's in the tires. It's not as nasty to rims as people think, strong brine is pumped in steel pipes without major issues.
I've seen it rust wheels in 4-5 years. It is real fun when you check air in the tires and the valve stem is rusted and it sprays until you put a metal valve stem cap on it. Even if the valve stem is working right, when you check or add air to the tires a little is going to spray out and get on the rim. Even if you wipe it of, you are not going to get it all and you are asking for rust. I have methanol in my tires. It is not as heavy as calcium chloride but I don't have to worry about rust. I'd like to.have rim guard for the extra weight. I checked the price on Rim guard for 11.2-28 tires. I want to think it was between $100-150. I think you are best of going with a non corrosive fluid even if it is a few bucks more so you don't have to worry about rust in the future. Who wants to buy a new tractor and have a corrosive fluid in the tire. Rim guard is $.28 a lb. My 17.5L-24 holds 55 gallons. That is 589lbs of rim guard. It would cost $165 per tire. I'm going to guess methanol is $2 a gallon. That would be $110 per tire. 364lbs per tire. I'm not sure what calcium chloride cost. Plus you need tubes. In my case tubes are $50x2. 16.9/17.5L-24 Radial Tube TR-218 So now I am $50 a tube, then let's say I can get buy with a $25 repair in $20 years, now I am $75 into it without purchasing calcium chloride. Do you know how much it is a gallon? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Here is a picture of the old BMC Nuffield 460 moving some firewood this afternoon. And dads Fordson farm major with FEL And the Fordson again down by the creek cleaning up a smashed and half dead golden wattle. This time the tote is on the 3 point hitch as it was a little rough getting out of there and the tractor is more stable with the weight at the back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is cheap because you do not buy it by the gallon, just buy a bag of it for melting your driveway, and mix it in with water. You can typically get 10 pounds for $5, so it is not a lot of money. That is the advantage, but then again I thought Beet Juice was more expensive then what it is, so you are probably right, when you factor in the cost of the tubes, it is about the same.
Bringing in some White Birch after some trail cleanup. These were all arched over the trail from the ice storms last year. They didn’t straighten up over the summer so I figured I would cut them before they fall and block the trail.
That was in late October/early November. We have a lot of rain headed at us tomorrow so could end up looking like that by Monday afternoon. Unfortunately they are predicting about a foot of snow for Wednesday so it wont last long. Tomorrow will be the third time our snow cover has been erased this winter. At least I don’t have to worry about pushing the banks back.
Our snowbanks are all ice so they're just like hitting a rock if you try and push them back. Our trails are all ice covered with maybe two inches of sugar snow so even though you have ice fishing cleats on, it doesn't help out much.
If you have forks for your loader you can break the banks up if needed. I start at the top and take a bit at a time. Takes some time but if you need a the get through one for drainage or access it can be done.
