Firewood bins

A lot of good ideas here, and nice looking set ups Deacon & HarvestMan... the thing I don't (and my wife really doesn't) like about the tote cages I posted before is having to pick the splits out of the top, or worm them out the holes in the sides, if I could fashion a gate on one side I might be fore them, but still is the matter of moving them around... just need my own skid steer

The customer of mine that gave me permission to cut some big Honey Locusts, he uses them and loves them. I convinced him to wrap a few with plastic wrap to for a Hillbilly Kiln. He loves them and is looking for more free cages, I've got a few for sale, but he can get them free. His plan is to fill them up leave them in the shed (or out in the sun with the Hillbilly kilns) until ready to use then move them to his walk out basement patio under his deck. then it is just a few steps inside to his wood insert.

 

Eric VW try any local Co-op's, Ag centers anyone that does chemical/fertilizer application, that's where I got mine, they are always looking for people to take them.

 

I am just speculating here but could you build long bins using some of that 4 inch mesh metal and just leave an easy to remove spot in the middle. You could either walk in or toss over the top to fill the bin but when its time to move the wood to the stove pull out your access door and pick up the spilled splits on day 1. After that you could just go for whatever was in reach until you emptied the whole bin. I need a wood shed built and this feels like it might be the right answer for me. It would take 3 long bins. One for this year, next year and the year after. I would leave space between the bins for a wheel barrow for both loading and unloading the bins. A 6 feet wide by 6 feet high by 12 feet long bin should be enough for what I am likely to burn in a year. For me a 12 feet by 24 feet lean-to would hold a center bin across the back and a bin on each end and would even leave me a nice open 6x12 floor space in the front to work in a dry location on rainy days. A real floor under the work area and expanded metal under the bins would make for good air flow for drying but a nice solid floor to walk on.
I like my own idea enough that I may just draw out the design today and see if I run into any glitches. It's a lot easier to move a line on a piece of paper than it is to move a board in the real world.

 

Oldman47 "You can use and eraser on the drafting table, or a sledge hammer on the construction site"~ Frank Loyd Wright

As a building designer, draftsman, and construction company owner... these are words I live by. I can buy a lot of erasers for what it cost to swing a sledge hammer once!

 

I don't even use an eraser. My CAD program will delete any line rather quickly. I am presently doing a DIY build of a home I designed myself. By putting all of the details into the plans I find I can spot any interferences quickly and correct them "on paper". When I want a working drawing of something I copy the part I am working on at the time to a separate layer and then print that layer with all of the details included.

 

yeah me to... I still draw for fun, but all my plans and designs are done with CAD, it's awesome to be bale to cut and paste from old sets of plans!