I'm getting ready to replace the original baffle on my 96 Fireview. I was reading the instructions and it mentioned an air tube thats mounted to the underside of the baffle. I had no idea it was in there since its not listed on the parts diagram but WS does sell a replacement tube on their website. There's also a 3/4" hole on the bottom left of the flue collar where the air tube connects to. So that got me thinking about modifying the air tube system and put in a larger set of tubes with controllable air similar to what these guys build in the video links. You can see the tube at step 6 of the instructions https://www.woodstove.com/images/editorial_support/ClassicPDF-Instructions/baffle.pdf secondary manifold straight pipe
Yeah I have it all mapped out in my head after watching several youtube videos about adding secondary burn tubes to older stoves. I'll give it a go since I'll have the thing taken apart soon to replace the baffle. I'm thinking about building the tubes out of black pipe then have it come out of the existing hole in the rear of the stove and cover the pipe with some sheet metal to act as a heat shield and keep the pipe air hot. Then have it come out from under the stove to a ball valve to control the air supply for the secondary system.
I would caution against that, other than using as a test apparatus. Even with a heat shield, that black pipe will rot due to oxidation. Been there, done that.
Spendy, but yes. If it’s feasible to do a test run, black would be fine. But if the concept is proven out, could run stainless right out of the gate.
And melt...BTDT too. Stainless is what you want. 309 and 310 are the grades that are meant for high heat applications...but even 304 is way better than black pipe.
I've played around with secondary air on some stuff...it can be a real challenge to get it right...made my one firebox really finicky...after about a thousand hours of screwing around with it I finally abandoned the project...it wasn't good enough for me from the factory, and I couldn't get it to behave once modded...and I got tired of the dang thing filling the house with smoke when it started backpuffing...decided to move on before I burnt the house down, and then my HO insurance cancelling me for screwing with things!
With the very efficient cat and the way the air wash creates the ribbons of (secondary) flame, I'm not sure how much you'd gain. I'm very satisfied with mine the way it is but as long as you can return it to factory condition, no harm done.
Mines a 201 so no air wash on it. I can put this together without changing the condition of the stove. The mounting holes are already on the baffle and the secondary air entry point is an existing 3/4" hole on the rear of the stove. I might try it just to see if there's any benefit and if it doesn't work or isn't worth keeping the mod I'll just replace the factory air tube.
I would be worried about adding extra cold air to the top which will effect the cat. Especially if still using ceramics.
No tubes per se but this is a diagram of air circulation. My concern would be with adding extra air. Not unlike cracking open the door with the bypass not engaged. Don’t get me wrong. I’m all for experiments. I once installed a secondary burn system in a non cat stove. Couldnt maintain a nice burn but I on.y had six feet of flue pipe on top. Just not enough draft to effectively test anything I think. Had a 201 also. Just would be aware there’s little preheating of the air feeding the cat. Think that’s why they reengineered that stove in later designs. Adding more air could be counterproductive. Hey, try it. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Just keep in mind you may end up cracking the cats if they’re still ceramic.
Great info. Thanks! I think I'm just going to use the existing air tube and not modify anything. I don't want to go through all this and 1) it not work or 2) it cracks the cat as you've mentioned. Then I'd be pizzed lol. Ah well. Thanks everyone for the feed back. It's fun bouncing ideas around.
