Got the shed basically done this week...all closed up with outside paneling, paint and doors on. The only thing left (besides interior shelving) is the metal roof, which I am getting Tuesday. Now it's on to the cabin!
Got some stuff done this week...got the metal roof on and started trim and paint on the shed...also started process for getting the well up and running...been using jugs of water so far! Last pic is the roof half set..total roof is 24' and put 2 rows @ 12'6'' for 12" overlap. Hard to tell but it is dark green, and the trim will match.
Update...don't have the opportunity to get on much, but got started on the cabin! First pic is (obviously) the footer holes, rented a 1 man auger with a 6" blade, so had to square each hole... 15 of them. Second one shows the ledger boards, and setting the middle row of supports...made concrete bases for more stability. Not only are the supports encased, but I always run a bolt or spike through the 6" X 6" to help the connection to the concrete. Lastly I got a little trigger time when cutting the supports!
I tell ya...that is the best saw I've ever owned. Never fails to start, and now is sporting that 20" bar, and is much better than the 16" it came with. I got that at a pawn shop about 15 years ago, and paid...(wait for it...) $125 !!! I have made at least $15,000 dollars selling wood in that time. Have a Husky 359 which is a little more powerful, but is kinda finicky to start sometimes, so it is truly my "go to" saw.
Wow i got a 026 from a Pawn shop too!! It isnt the big run and gun but its got the power I should need. Better power to weight. I realize that the hard part is holding it up if im cutting with the tip. Other than that its not much of an issue. The tuning took me some tries that were difficult to keep it running as pulling the trigger sometimes died. Just took some finger work and finally got it. Saw isn't temperamental but I had vibe issues that worked the carb screws. Anyways works well for me i just think i want something with power that handles the rounds that cut 24+ and no bog. 60+ cc.
Got the cabin base done...in between all the rain we've had. Now on to the walls..my SIL's new husband is an architect and drew me up detailed plans, "so I got that going for me, which is nice" !!! (golf nuts will get that)
Funny you should say that...I am using screws throughout, never been real good with a hammer! That hammer you see is more of a "persuader" to be used only in case of an emergency!
Well, my BIL says he's going to come sometime soon, and could use all help offered. He's been here (Atlanta) before and it takes about 12 hours. On the good side, my wifes' last day at work is today so I will have another set of hands around (assuming she doesn't start a honey-do list!)
Started on the walls finally....also built an outdoor shower (now that I have county water) that has a propane heater...wife said she wasn't coming up till she could take a shower!
Why are the supports in the soil? I don't understand. Plus, are there termites in the area? Are you 16 inches above soil level? I think you need a distance of 16 inches above soil level to keep termites from building mud tunnels to the wood.
The base posts are "ground contact" treated wood 6" x 6"...they are sunk 24" into the soil (which is mostly clay below 4"), and the middle three are also concreted in and pinned with rebar 3ft below grade. All the base wood (ledger boards and floor joists) is also pressure treated. Top of the 8" rear ledger boards are minimum 24" above grade, and almost 36" above in the front. There are termites here in Georgia, but here on the mountain they are mostly in the woods. I will keep an eye on things going forward, as you said they could travel up the PT wood to the framing, but if I have any trouble I will treat the ground for protection
My BIL left that ladder...best I've owned..awful heavy, but at the top you can stand or climb on both sides. Best thing I built so far is that shower...beats the hell out of sponge baths!
