The tape you have will work fine on the sill. I bought Pella brand same stuff it looks like. Your windows should have a detailed instruction sheet with illustrations for how to tape the sill.
papadave, thanks for clarifying your knowledge base. I didn't mean to suggest you didn't know anything. that flexco wrap is good stuff. We purchase similar in larger rolls from our window suppliers. Most will do the job. Basod has a great detail of the taping approach. My favorite line is to,"think like water" and you'll be good. On the Andersen 400 series the nailing fin is either 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" wide. Use some care in cold weather so it doesn't crack. You would think a Minnesota company would have their nailing fin not crack in the cold. Hans Andersen would be pizzed about that, he is probably rolling over a few times in his grave. Especially with that 100 series. But, don't get me started on the direction Andersen is going. They are the proverbial Gorilla in the room. I have been told that Home Depot is almost a $1 billion customer to Andersen. That's alot of windows. Back to your project. using 2"x 6"s is a good idea and just rip them down to match your wall thickness and you're there.
Man, I'm gald you said that......I grabbed a few 2x6 at HD today. Yep, I got that, so no problem at all, and i really appreciate your insight. I should know in a couple days if the paperwork shows it, but can you tell me if the "400s" need to have the bottom fin taped? I've seen some windows that were and then some not, for drainage. Wow, that's a lotta windows. Running nails into a seam, as was mentioned earlier is a concern I had. Do you use foam at all....I don't like using the pink stuff on windows or doors.
I'm gonna say negative on taping the bottom flange - any water that could migrate in would be trapped on the taped sill. You're going to want to use the great stuff(W&D) the side shims will move around on you when trying to flush cut them. Two tricks I learned after a few windows. 1.Mask the face of the window casing that will be exposed with painters tape, some amount of GS will expand and get on the casing and the fabric seals - royal PITA to get off after. 2. Steady continuous movement with the GS nozzle, don't overdue it. Let it cure fully and then trim your shims and any excess GS with utility knife, then remove tape
Best not to tape the bottom of the window nailing fin. Any condensate d moisture can dry or drain. Hopefully no moisture from exterior due to your solid job of sealing all penetrations. That is one of the arguments for caulking the back side of the nailing fin. ???? I'm not sure on that one, probably added insurance. I am a low expanding foam fan. We use Great Stuff with the gun because we can control the rate of flow. Better than not putting too much in the cavity. With foam more is not necessarily better. A dead air space is a great insulator. In essence, that is what foam is lots of tiny dead air spaces. If you don't want to invest in the gun we have found the the DAP foam out of the can works a little better. Harder to find but we get ours at an Ace Hardware store. Similar product but seams to find the micro cracks better, just our opinion. Like basod says, mask off what you don't want foam to get on. It is a sob to get it off. Acetone is the cleaner for Great Stuff. But, sometimes the Acetone is worse on the surface than the great stuff. Dow Chemical has some nice Youtube video's on the use of great stuff those might help you too. Good Luck
Thanks basod. I wouldn't have thought of foaming before trimming the shims, or the painters tape. Yep, even the window and door GS expands some, so a little goes a long way. The least amount of cutting/scraping of that stuff I have to do, the gooder. 10-4 on the steady movement too.
papadave I will let others chime in but in my experience I do tape bottom I also put a 1/16th angle on bottom 2x6 to the outside.. this encourages water to go out if replacement and can't angle water out. when putting on outside coil stock on brake do a double fold closest to house so water goes out. In my experience water loves to go to lowest point and sit. This will eventually rot. Number of doors and windows I seen rotten on bottom corners is too high like almost all.
Got the call this morning while still drinking coffee that the delivery would be here within 15 minutes. Driver was nice enough to drop the pallets right by the front porch. Now, if this dang rain will stop, we can do some installing.
So do I. An awful lot of Saran Wrap got used on those pallets. If I was going to be home, I'd unwrap and take some good measurements, but we'll be gone all afternoon....and it's raining.
Well, today went gooder than I thought it would. Help showed up around 11:30, and a family friend showed up about an hour later. In about 3-3.5 hours, we got 4 old windows out, and 4 new windows in. Now that I'm full of pizza, I need a nap.
looking good PD, my wife would say I would be rest of weekend on it and tape and mud and make her finish it
The plan is to do the last window, then move onto reframing for the new front door, tomorrow. Going from a 30" door to a 36" door will be nice. We'll save the back door for last.
Yep, I'm ecstatic. Thought we might get 2 done. We're old, so expectations aren't high any more. Belly full of pizza is a very close 2nd place finisher. Very close.
"We're old, so expectations aren't high any more." ... expectations? I vaguely remember what that is... ......
Thanks Gas. HDR, no, they're old double panes, but aluminum frames. Glass was cool/cold, and the frames got as cold as the outside temp. They'd sweat, then freeze, then thaw........dripping water onto the sills and into the walls, etc. Been wanting to do this for a few years, and I've had this room torn up for quite a while. We finally had enough money to git 'er dun, so here we go.
