Fehrenheit endurance

I can't see the bottom of the pot because of ash, but I would venture to say that isn't the newest pot, based on the version of the software. The newest pot comes to a "V" at the bottom. Yours will look like a "V" but will have a flat spot at the very bottom of the V (1/2" wide or so). I have this pot as well and it still works great. I don't know why they went to a Full V, but I know from talking with Matt Fitts (Lead tech at Fahrenheit technologies) that the newest version is a Full V.

As for the software, the only change I can recall is the Blower setting (600 & 800). So no worries there.

I am glad they are doing right by you. I think your really gonna like it. I never have to push mine on level 5. This year was the 1st time I used level 4 (we had -40° nights)If it's above 0° , I just use level 3 on the thermostat mode. I never used Fuelmizer mode either. But then again, I use my Enerzone stove upstairs for shoulder season (Spring and Fall when temps are not Freezing). I would highly recommend a good thermostat with a good swing setting. You don't want a 1° swing like most Honeywell stats have. You want a Lux 500, 1500, or a Good Hunter. They all have good swing settings (3°- 4°)

A house your size, you should be able to use a lower setting. If you still feel like it's not up to par, then your gonna be better off hooking up the cold air return. Because the way it stands now, the furnace is heating your basement as well. It blows the heat upstairs through the registers, that air came from the basement and went through the furnace, then upstairs. So now, air upstairs has to come downstairs to replace that air. So you are heating every level of your home
To keep the basement out of the equation, you will need a cold air return. I don't use one because I have a wood stove about 15' away and I can get the basement to about 90° and the Fahrenheit takes that hot air and distributes it upstairs. So I am helping the furnace by preheating the air. The wood stove also has an OAK on it. So that the house isn't drawing cold air in everywhere.

The idea of an OAK is this. While the stove is running the exhaust blower is blowing 80 CFM (Cubic feet per Minute) of air out of the vent. By having the stove hooked to an outside air source, it's now a closed loop system. Air comes from outside. Stoves uses it for combustion of the pellets, then blows it back outside.
Without an OAK, the stove pulls air from in your basement (air that you heated and paid money for pellets to heat). That air from in your house is then ducked into the stove, used for combustion, and then blown out the exhaust. Every Cubic foot of air that is blown out of your house, must be replaced. So any leaky or Draft area in your home will be pulling cold air in. Thereby making it even harder to heat your home. So every minute, you will be pulling in 80 Cubic feet of cold outside air through your drafty spots.

That's why Fahrenheit wants one on the furnace. It's only helping you to heat your home and making the workload not as large. Your fighting against yourself when an OAK is not hooked up. They only make sense (although it's a great debate by many. Some say that they are useless. Some say that they are wonderful. I'm on the wonderful side. Every stove I own had an OAK).

 

I noticed that, not much changed.

I needed an entire board. Took old one and received a new one. And the blower was the only update. All fuels and trims are the same. Not needed. If she was gonna upgrade anything it should be the High flow exhaust manifold and the high flow sail switch.

I don't know how Fahrenheit does upgrades? It wasn't as if the other parts don't work (this isn't a case like the M-55 NEEDED a bigger convection blower. So most models that were on the floor got an update). Although I would ask your dealer, because those 2 singles components made my stove go from borderline o.k. burning with damper wide open. To running with my damper 1/2 shut and getting a white firebox (you don't want to see dark colored ash. A grey, light grey, to white colored ash is what you want. And a nice and lively flame.

 

Just a thought, but they could have disconnected the main trunk off the furnace and you could have just had the furnace push all the hot air out of the top of it? And heat from the basement.

That would have worked fairly well.

 

Take pics of where the dampers are in?

How many registers throughout your entire house?