In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fehrenheit endurance

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by Ward8512, Feb 22, 2014.

  1. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    This is what we have for our Oak, it is 3" flex pipe. Is this correct? The manual says it should be 2 1/2". Does that matter? It was leaking pretty bad when hooked up...

    image.jpg image.jpg
     
  2. 343amc

    343amc

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    I used 3 inch rigid aluminum pipe for mine ( aluminum I think) with a piece of flex pipe attached to that pipe. I found a car exhaust system adapter that slides right over the air intake on the furnace. A hose clamp goes over the connection between that adapter and the flex pipe. It's not the prettiest but it works.

    Long story short, you shouldn't feel air coming out of the intake pipe. It should be a fairly snug fit.
     
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  3. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I used 3" also. No worries. Bigger is better in this situation. But it doesn't need to be insulated?

    For about $30 you can do this yourself. Get some rigid and some flex. Both sold at Lowes and Home Depot. Run the rigid down close to the furnace and then run the flex over to the furnace.

    (I painted a small section of my exhaust. I was gonna do the whole thing and decided not to. I did the OAK on my Woodstock in black though and I may do the Fahrenheit next year because the wood stove doesn't have any condensation on the pipe. None. I think the black keeps the pipe warmer and keeps the water droplets from forming )
     

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  4. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    Dex, They told us that it had to be insulated so that condensation doesn't form when the cold air comes into the warm room.
    Is that the right type of vent to use or should we get something else?
     
  5. brokenwing

    brokenwing

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    I use a metal dryer duct as well, it has ice on it when it is cold, and drips a little, but no biggy!
     
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  6. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    It's Still gonna form moisture. Just the insulation will suck it up.

    It doesn't need to be replaced. It should be fine..

    But... That flex can't be seen? So if there is a kink in it, restricting air flow? You'll never know. Something is causing that furnace to burn super rich (no air).

    I can look at the O.D. of my OAK and verify that there is no kinks.
     
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  7. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    Good point, I think the insulation has got to go. Thanks
     
  8. 343amc

    343amc

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    Or you can scrape the ice off and put it in your favorite beverage.

    Mine gets icy when it's 10 degrees or colder outside. I put an aluminum turkey pan under the flex pipe so any condensation drips into the pan instead of on the floor.

    If it's darn cold out and I see frost on the oak pipe, that means it isn't plugged outside. At least thats my justification for it.

    Pardon the sideways picture.....
     

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  9. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    damm and I just bought a fridge with an ice maker in it :)
     
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  10. 343amc

    343amc

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    Trust me when I say I've seen that pipe iced up more than I care to remember this year.

    Right about now, I'd be happy to turn the furnace off for the season. That would mean its WARM outside. I don't see that happening for another few weeks at least. :(
     
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  11. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    I hear ya, I was so happy to see 30* yesterday that I skipped the jacket and worked in a sweatshirt. Yep, that's how you know your from Wi! (Or Mi) :)
     
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  12. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    New furnace is in except for the exhaust, that will be done tomorrow. What do you all think? Better? image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
  13. eatonpcat

    eatonpcat

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    Looks much better to me!!
     
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  14. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    They even used a real termination cap this time :)

    Looks good :thumbs:


    Before the pot gets all mucked up, do me a favor a snap a few pics of the pot (outside of it and looking down in) and also a pic of the back of the ash pan area. Remove ash pan, and take a pic of the back wall there. I want to see what they did different with the heat exchanger and the back baffle area. The newest ones have an update that I can't get. It requires a whole new furnace. It's not a part that can just be swapped out. I'm curious. .

    The exhaust set up looks better, the ductwork looks better. It looks like a $6,000 job now. Congrats
     
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  15. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I got a question? ? Is that a dryer vent they used for OAK? Those are designed to open when air is being pressurized in the vent? That is an intake vent with vacuum? Wouldn't that be closing the louvers? They kinda looked cracked open? But can't tell??
     
  16. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    No, not a dryer vent. They just put a dryer type of cap on the outside. My Husband said he had them put a hose clamp on it this time and it's not leaking anymore.
     
  17. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    Here ya go Dex. If you need anymore let me know.

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
  18. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    That's what I mean. Those dryer caps only open when air comes out of them. That is an intake, so air won't come out of it. It needs to be sacking in air. If those lovers are closed? Then that explains why your furnace was running so rich and getting "Choked". Because it couldn't such any air? Those lovers need removed, and a screen put over it, or at least every other one removed.

    The intake needs a wide open and unrestricted path. If it can't get air, this furnace will run the same way.
     
  19. Ward8512

    Ward8512

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    Thank you for noticing that, I will go check it out right now!
     
  20. will711

    will711

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    That looks much better , good call on removing that wall :thumbs:
     
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