Farmertec 372XP Build

Looking good!

 

Looks good !

What's this spring looking piece between the handle and case ?
Ernie

 

I wonder that myself.

 

Is it connected to something or just laying in there? Could it be the chain brake spring?

 

Tank vent. There should be a white plastic piece that goes on the end. It’s in one of the bags. The parts PDF I attached should give you an idea of the bag.

I was going to set mine on top of the carburetor plate. There’s a hole in the plate to route it through.

 

That must be something different then OEM ..I've never seen that set up .

Ernie

 

Yeah, mines not like that.

 

Was watching a video of an older build and I didn’t see the hose.

It took me a few minutes to figure out what it was when I looked at mine. Maybe they were having fuel flow issues with the original ones ? Or they were venting it another way that was causing issues ?

 

Have an air powered die grinder that I can run off of my big air compressor but unfortunately my shop isn't heated so I'll have to wait for it warm up before I can start modifying the cylinder. Not a fan of running my compressor when it's <40F out. Thought about buying an electric Dremel but I can't stomach spending that kind of money for a one time project.

Made some good progress today. Got the flywheel, clutch, brake bank and carburetor cover on. That spring on that brake band is no joke. Of course I didn't have a piece on there correctly and had to take the spring off and do it a second time. Fought with the ground wire for a while and was able to find a spot to put the wire they gave me after putting a spade connector on it as I didn't have any small gauge stranded wire at the house to use.

Final product as of now.



My fix for keeping piece down that I had problems with the first time. Check out the matching colors.



Tank vent, gas line, and carburetor plate.



Did I do this right ?

 

That small hole in the case just above where your ground is coming through the case is where the ground wire connects to the case ...just a small loop connector and a screw into the case.
Ernie

 

This is the best pic I can find rite now without going out in the garage .
You can see the small philips screw through the loop connector.
Ernie

 

Looking good. Yeah that brake spring is a pita. Mine went flying a couple times. Coil gap should be fine. I used an appointment card on mine. Mine is off color too.

 

Here is mine from 2018

 

ammoaddict or Ernie G did you guys run a vacuum test on your saws ?

How do your saws run ?

 

I always run a p/v test on a rebuild and as far as running I can't speak for a Holzforma because I don't have one ..I only have two Husqvarna 372xp OE

Ernie

 

Yes I did pressure and vacuum test. It runs very good. It has the big bore kit, gasket delete, timing advance and muffler mod.

 

Checking on progress...

 

Been under the weather since Saturday. Got some meds from the doc yesterday, and I'm feeling better today. At least my nose has stopped running like a waterfall. Made a little bit of progress late last week.

Asked some folks on the Farmertec Facebook group where this bag of mystery parts goes. Of course the piece that looks like a U goes on the plastic piece for the brake. Got that taken out, and added the metal piece over the plastic piece. The two pieces are tubing go over the bolts that go through the carb.



In the parts list there was a piece called "oiler bushing" ( round metal bushing in the below pic ). The videos talk about putting the metal washer into the oiler but mention nothing on where the bushing goes. The two individual diagrams don't seem to match exactly how it goes together. If you put the two diagrams "together" it does. After a few failed attempts not using the diagram I consulted the diagram and that was enough to get me moving in the right direction. Or maybe the page on the left is a continuation of the page on the right ? There's also a tiny rubber washer that needs to be dropped in there before putting the oiler on. One of the oiler bolts was too long so I swapped that out with a bolt that holds that plastic piece on for the chain brake mechanism.







Got some carbide bits and a vacuum test kit a few days ago. Now that its warmed up I plan on cleaning up the cylinder some this weekend. My plan is to remove everything below the black line in the picture below.

 

I have a new holzforma 372xt they use the echo style tank vent now
These clone saws have been very durable for me
I built this one about 6 year's ago and ran it 4 year's
I gave it to my niece and her husband a couple year's ago
Just had to replace a kill switch
Otherwise no issues.
Good compression with the hyway popup piston 170#
And a timing advance
It's stronger than my oem 372.

 

Pretty crappy weekend weather wise and I was hoping to finish the build today. Used the carbide cutters I got and trimmed the skirt down some. Some of the carbide was about wore off one of the cutters by the time I got done with both sides. Bought these from Amazon, and I should have known better that they would last.

Got the piston installed after cutting the cir clips down some and greasing the bearing. Guess the stock length cir clips like to come off due to weight, at least that's the theory from what I read.



Went to put the cylinder on after getting both rings in and it wouldn't go down hardly at all. Didn't want to push it too hard so I called a friend and he said to bring it over and he'd take a look. When he and I put it on we ran into the same issue. He immediately said "it shouldn't be this hard to push the cylinder down to the base". We pulled the cylinder off, took the piston rings off, and he then put each ring into the cylinder. He thought it was a piston ring gap issue. The first one measured 0.007 which seemed to be inline with what we read. We read that you should have 0.004 of ring gap per inch of cylinder width. The piston is 50MM which is close to 2" so that one checked out fine. The second piston ring we measured, the ends were over lapping. . On the picture below you can see the gap between the ring and the cylinder on the bottom right. When the kit came from Farmetec, the rings, wrist pin, and piston were jammed into the cylinder and I wonder if on the slow boat from China that caused the ring get out of whack. The friend who helped me works for a very large steel company and he said the heat treat might not have been done correctly either. Oh well, can't win them all.

Looks like I need to order a new set of rings. From what I read last night there are two different sets of rings that Husqvarna used for this saw. On the original saws they used one 1.5MM thick ring and then on the later editions they use two 1.2MM thick rings. Just to make sure that I have the 1.2MM rings I verified with a set of mics. Stihl uses the same rings on their 440 model. Thought about calling the local Stihl shop and seeing how much the rings would be. The closest Husky dealer is about a 45 minute ride one way and they don't have a phone and I don't know their hours ( Amish ). Am I better off just ordering the Caber rings online ?