Farmertec 372XP Build

AMEN!

 

I watched a couple 440 and 460 build videos and then watched the 372XP videos and I knew immediately the 372XP was what I wanted to build first because it was a lot simpler build than the Stihl clones. Baby steps. Thanks for the tips....

 

I'm digging the build threads. I hope more people get into it and share their journey.

 

Yes, I am finding that out watching after some of the build videos. I didn't want to bombard brenndatomu with all of my dumb questions, so all of you will get bombarded with them.

 

Just placed an order for Hylomar blue and some Threadlocker M-243 ( knock off Loctite ). Talked to a friend and he has a bearing heater he can get from work so I plan on just freezing the crank and heating the crank bearings. That seems to be the route that most folks go.

The aforementioned goodies won't be here for a few days so that will give me some time to clean the coating they sprayed on the case and maybe dig through the bolts and get them in some kind of order. My German brain doesn't deal with that kind of chaos very well.

 

Good idea...I have experience with lots of different kinds of mechanical objects, including saws, but they have never been my profession, or obsession, so these guys certainly have more experience on saws than I do...plus I have never messed with Huskys much...tried to buy a 272 once, but the lady just had it rebuilt and wanted more than I was willing to pay after she let me pull the muffler and I found some light scoring already...I did really dig the simple design though!

 

Removing the base gasket has no effect on that though. That was just a manufacturing defect of that kit.

 

Agreed

 

That was on the 660 kits. The inside of the piston skirt was too thick and barely touched the crank counterweights. Mine did it too. I just removed some material with my dremel. It shouldn't be a problem on the 372.

 

I was incorrect, he was just showing the difference between a big bore and standard piston ( 26 second or so in ) after you do case work. Should I assume removing the base gasket would essentially have the same effect he's showing ?

 

Removing the base gasket will not affect the clearance between the piston and crank. For that to happen you would have the change the length of the rod. It's the only thing connecting the piston and crank together. I don't really follow what he's saying and I'm probably not going to watch it a second time.

 

Haven't made much progress on the build as I've been waiting on Hylomar Blue and Loctite. It finally arrived today.

It's going to get really cold this weekend so I doubt I'll be doing much cutting so I'll work on getting the two case halves together. I've attached a 372 parts diagram, and a bag to bolt list that someone was kind enough to put together for the Farmetec 372XP just in case someone is looking to do a build of the same exact saw.

 

I'll be inside reloading this weekend and beyond based on our teens for highs coming.

 

I agree, this looks like an easier build than the Stihls...and nice to have that extra documentation/list too!

 

In one of the videos on YouTube he recommends cutting the cylinder back to match the case. It would be the area that has black marker on it ( right side ). Assuming that shouldn’t cause any issues ?



Marked the clutch and flywheel sides of the case so I know what’s what when I put them together. I also marked the crank.



Printed the PDF I attached and then stapled the coordinating bag of bolts to it.



That was enough fun for a work night.

 

You gonna fool around and be done with this before the weeks over!

 

This is just me, not telling you to do this, but not only would I remove the black, id raise the entire opening. Based on the pictures anyway. I've never played with one so that thought could change if I had it in front of me.

 

Have you seen the weather forecast for the next week ? Sure as heck ain’t going to be able to do anything outside.

 

I was planning on doing that. Similar to the attached picture.

 

Made some good progress tonight. A friend let me borrow his bearing heater to heat the bearings up so I could drop the crank into the bearings after it sat in the freezer for about three hours.



The crank dropped into the clutch side, on the flywheel side I had about 1/8 - 1/4 gap between the two cases. I snugged the bolts up in a pattern to bring the two case halves together. Lesson learned, get both sides up to or close to temperature at the same time vs heating one up and then the other.



I think I spend more time looking for stuff than what I do actually putting the saw together. Most of the parts are together but sometimes you are looking for a small piece that's covered by a bigger piece. I spent probably five minutes looking for a little piece of plastic. I'm glad I stapled the bolt bags to what they are, that has made it easier.



I don't think the ground wire they sent is going to work !! One side needs to have a spade terminal on it for the kill switch. I'll cut one side off and put a spade terminal on it. The colors are way off between the metal case and the plastic too. Oh well, that's what you get for the price.





I'll probably spend some more time on Sunday and Monday working on it.