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Englander NC30 - Alcove Install

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by jjspierx, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    Could somebody give me the depth measurement from the back face of the stove, to the front door of the stove? Also, the the depth added by the AC16 blower? Thanks so much!
     
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  2. papadave

    papadave

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    26.5" from the back of the heat shield to the front face of the stove, and 28 to the face of the door.
    Sorry, I don't have the AC16.
     
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  3. edyit

    edyit

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  4. chris

    chris

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    sorry been a few years since I ready my manual.
     
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  5. papadave

    papadave

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    Don't feel bad, I thought it was higher.:picard:I put down 5 layers of 1/2" Wonderboard. Don't remember the R-value of that stuff.
     
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  6. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    How many of you NC30 owners run an exhuast damper? I know they shouldn't be necessary, but it seems like it would nice to have for certain scenarios, like windy days, or maybe if you wanted to kill the fire quickly by closing the intake and exhaust.

    The reason I ask is there will be very little exposed vertical stove-pipe in my proposed setup, so I would probably have to run the damper right off the stove, and I wasn't sure if that was even possible.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018
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  7. papadave

    papadave

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    Not I.
     
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  8. billb3

    billb3

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    How can stove pipe not be exposed ?
     
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  9. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    I should have said, not easily accessible as it will be up behind the alcove, and only 8" or so will be visible and easily accessible if I wanted to install an exhaust damper.
     
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  10. DaveGunter

    DaveGunter

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    I use a damper it's about 6 inches from the collar, works fine there, I think a damper is a good idea, it gives you more control and options, you can always just leave it open.
     
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  11. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    My thoughts exactly...worst case scenario, everything drafts great in all conditions and I never touch it and waste $25.
     
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  12. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I don't have one. I know that some folks have them and feel they get better control with them, but I can control my stove anywhere between nuclear meltdown, to flameout at will with the inlet air control. Why would I need anything else?

    If I had an excesively long chimney, I would consider one.
     
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  13. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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  14. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    What you consider an excessively long chimney? I expect mine will be around 25'. Although only ~10ft of that will be exposed out of the house.
     
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  15. chris

    chris

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    In My latest install NC-30 the exhaust damper will be a needed item or the baro damper( not fond of that idea though)- get high winds , I had the flue pipe plugged with a wad of plastic bags - storm with Tornados came threw- guess where that wad of plastic bags is right now. Yep, jammed up top in the flue cap. Still working on the floor protection pad, read label on tile mastic -oh oh, only good for 120 deg F. Back to thinset for the tiles, so got to get some. can't win. Hope I can just run the brush up to pull the plastic out otherwise I have to go up on that super steep roof to pull the cap. 12-7 roof, its along way down and nothing up there to tie off to.
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    I am piecing together stove pipe/chimney components, and am a little confused as to the differences between a firestop radiation shield, vs. a ceiling support. Can they be used interchangeably? What are the pros/cons of each? Is one better going between a 1st floor to 2nd floor, and one better from 2nd floor to attic?
     
  17. papadave

    papadave

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    Ceiling support box holds the pipe (you secure it to framing), and the shield keeps combustibles away from the pipe (such as insulation).
     
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  18. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    Thanks papadave!

    This video gives a great description with more information about it.



    The ceiling support box should be used on the lowest level, and supports the weight of the chimney, and also a safe pass-thru (so no extra shield required). The shield would be used between the first and 2nd stories to provide safe passage, and no roof support necessary, since the weight of the chimney is already being carried by the roof support between 1st and 2nd floors.
     
  19. jjspierx

    jjspierx

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    *Correction* The shield would be used between the 2nd floor and at the attic.
     
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  20. papadave

    papadave

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    Yep, we know. Good on ya' for noticing.
     
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