Earth Stove

My mistake i thought i was replying to another person on this thread who was working on one of this type of stove
i assume its mobile home compliant stove sorry , just look for the primary air intake control it should be under the lower
roll scallop a lever at least on my stove , this will control and slow the rate of burn pulling the lever toward you will be open
faster burn pushing the lever down away closing the air to much may cause creosote
Rich.

 

This stove was installed in this mobile home new from the factory, we are however moving the countertop near it further from the stove. My husband and I have read everything we can find on these stoves but sometimes that isn't much. We are currently burning oak that was cut 4 years ago so it's definetly dry. We swept the chimney 4 weeks ago when me moved the mobile home to its perment site. Our major problem is controlling the air flow, we need to damper it down some how. We are very familiar with fireplaces but I feel like we are missing something & it shouldn't be that hard. Our stove has 7" triple wall pipe since it is in a mobile home, the only damper I have been able to find for triple wall pipe is almost $500 also this stove has the re-burn pipe that runs 3/4 of the way up the chimney so adding a damper into that pipe is out of the question. The only real damper option we have found that would work is a roof damper, but from what I read you want the damper as close to the fire box to prevent creosote build up. I also read somewhere that the brass knobs control air flow, does anyone know if that is true? I will have to look into the vents under the lower scallops next weekend when we are back up there. Currently we are going through wood quickly and having a hard time keeping a bed of coals. Any suggestions?

 

Laura, have you checked any gaskets on the stove? Could be they are no longer sealing well.

Here's a parts list of sorts.......http://woodheatstoves.com/free/Lennox_wood_parts_list.pdf
Manual....http://woodheatstoves.com/earth-stove-901905-user-manual-wood-p-18117.html?language=en

 

Laura , before you do anything look under the lower scallop if its like my stove on your right side of the lower scallop you should find a lever that is your primary
air control this should have major effect on how your stove operates my insert stove has a damper flap lever on the upper right but that has very minor effect , when the
stove were first made they had a decal on the scallop an arrow showing the control on my stove that i bought on CL it was painted over the person before that had it never
knew of it it was frozen in position i had to spray WD on it to free it up so this is common mine was stuck in a position that it worked , i would get the stove going controlling your primary air
before doing anything else my damper doesn't have that much effect on my stove i don't know of a re=burn tube but if sold that way i assumed it worked with out a damper
in the stack pipe , the Earth Stove called it a thermostat ?? its a primary air control , on my stove the brass knobs are to lift up the top to maybe use it to heat food or something
Rich.

 

The original 100/700 etc. ES stoves all had woven fiberglass door seals, not asbestos. I have the original 100/105 manual that says that. My ES had the original gasket in it when I bought this house and it was one inch fiberglass. Asbestos was pretty much phased out by 1978. Someone likely replaced the original door gasket with what you have there (rock wool?). Just replace it with a Meeko's/Red Devil door kit, #216 which is a one inch and 6' long. Also get a tube of high temp Gasketing Cement & Stove Sealer (same company) and glue the fiberglass to the door with that. Make sure you do not bunch up the rope too thick as you go; the door will not close right if the gasket is too thick. Tug on it a bit as you lay it in to keep it thinner. I am not sure about the back; mine did not have any insulation there. Just metal in the damper area.

 

That looks like the smaller version of the stove that I had. These stoves came in a series of 8 scallop (smaller) and a 10 scallop (larger) designs. I do not know what state you are in, but a double wall flue is usually good enough for a double wide with a wood stove. That is what I had on my ES when I bought my house and it was up to par for HUD and building code. This state has since mandated that all homes sold have at least a Phase II EPA stove in them. So I replaced my ES705 with an Englander 30. The Englander does not work as well in my opinion. Several reasons, but the ES was more massive, had a reasonable secondary air intake system in the back and top, and they had a thermostatically controlled damper on the side that controls the air intake. The colder the room gets, the more the damper opens. The warmer it gets, the damper closes down. The best way to get the most heat for the longest time with the ES is the same as with the Englander: damp them down pretty low.

These stove, like newer EPA stoves, are not designed to have a damper on the exhaust flue. The only reason you would want a damper there is if you are subject to high winds that suck too much air up the flue (as was my case here with sustained 45 MPH winds for the past 3 days with gusts over 60 MPH). These ES wood stoves (like EPA stoves) were built to be damped at the air intake. Usually on Eearth Stoves there is a knob at the back top of the right side. That has a coil thermostat on it and is connected to a rod at the top of the air intake in back of the stove. The rod is connected to a damper which is a rectangular flap. Close it down, and the air intake is suppressed, except for 2 smaller tubes that allow for direct air intake at the top of the firebox, and in later models, a 1 inch pipe that had a 90 degree bend and goes up about 3 feet into the flue. These three tubes allow air to mix with unburned gasses and ignite, similar to later design EPA stoves. They are an early EPA hybrid of sorts. These stoves also have an OAK for HUD requirements, but that is pretty much a non-factor (they are better IMO than having no OAK).

By the way, the brass knobs on the top back of your stove are for looks only. They are not the damper controllers. The damper controller should be a small knob at the top of the right side panel of the stove, all the way at the back. There would have been a high, mid and low setting marked on it from the factory. The knob is on a small metal box. Inside the box is the thermocouple coil that connects the knob to the damper rod. It is an early auto-controlled damper and they work well. You just have to learn how to set it over time to suit your conditions and needs. I set my ES damper controller on high when I started a fire, and then turned it all the way down and then back up a crack from there once the fire was going. If you leave the damper on high it will overfire! I found it very easy to overfire my ES. To begin with I set it higher, about 1/3 open most of the time, but that lets too much heat out the flue. Over time I set it lower and lower and realized the smoke dragon way is the more efficient (even though they say that is not the case, it is, with this stove and with my Englander). I need to design a thermocouple coil to add to my Englander damper rod to allow it to adjust itself automatically, like my OLD OBSOLETE pre-EPA Earth Stove did. ES was way ahead of their time. They were built near me in Oregon, BTW. Then they bought out some other stove companies and then were bought out by Lennox, and basically shyte-canned into extinction. Another example of what is wrong with modern America.

 

Also: here is a PDF manual for the ES 100/105 which is pretty much the same stove in a long series of them, up to the 705 I think? It has the map of the firebricks, information on the thermostat and information on installing them. It is the best information that I know of for these older ES stoves. Also that is more likely an 8 inch flue on your stove, not a 7 inch. Almost all ES wood stoves had an 8 inch flue opening at the top. My ES 705 had an 8 to 6 inch reducer set into the stove, and a telescoping 6" stainless double wall flue connected to that. I am using that same 6" flue on my Englander now.

http://hearth.com/images/uploads/Earthstove100_manual.PDF

 

Stihhead Thanks for correcting my wrong information on where the thermostat is , it seams not much information on these stove's unless you owned one in its day 70s early 80s
Rich.

 

Well, there are a lot of them around here still, as they were made here. I owned and used one until I sold it earlier this year. They last forever, except for the inner door which always warps in them. The steel was too thin in the inside liner of the doors in those. Rust seems to get to them too if they are left where condensation will collect on them (like in a garage or shed). My ES was as old as this house (built in 77) and I think that it was little used by its former owners. I used it for 100% of my house heating for 4 years here. They are good stoves and were way ahead of their time. They are also HUGE! The 10 scallop models will hold a massive amount of wood. The smaller 8 scallop models are about the size of an Englander 30.

 

StilhHead here is a photo of the insert stove i bought last year Colony Hearth pre epa i think its around 1977 or abouts that era i installed a burn tube system
on it you can see the brass inlets on each side lower part of the stove it seems to work burning vapors lots of dancing around flames this goes on for awhile during a log
and then dies off i don't know if this is typical with all of stoves this this is my first wood stove in this thread you see the glass view door i made this just to see if this all worked
i fine the glass door gets dirty after awhile if the primary air is closed down . So most of the time i still use the original door , one thing i noticed is if you go on youtube and watch
some of the guys that did the upgrade you will find the burn tube system looks like a barbecue flames coming out of the holes on the tubes i don't know if these guys are just looping
there video or there getting this amazing efficiency see s burst of flame at times but like what there showing i do notice the chimney is emitting very little smoke . this stove does not
have the scallops and will hold very large amount of wood it has no problem with over night burns with a nice bead of glowing coals in the morning , i think a good sheet metal shop that works with
cold rolled sheet metal can fabricate the door for not much money and even a gage higher 14 or 16 . i think anyone discount these old stoves is making a mistake there not over fired and warped.
Rich

 

Yah, the ES inserts are somewhat different than the stand alone stoves. The patterns on the doors are varied between the different ES models as well. Interesting overlap design on the door there. I have a collection of ES photos with different door patterns and ceramic medallions in the center.

 

I am still using the earth stove I purchased in 1983 as I type this. heats 3200 ft. never used havc to heat

 

Gary i think my Earth Stove is from 1978 not even a cracked brick the home heating system barely comes on
and 10 hour burn never a problem massive construction of these stove's in todays market would price them out of
the market place , since the decor of the den the fire place is in is of the 80s the stove just looks perfect i am not changing a thing
and of course the Red fire place Dog he fits right it
Happy me

 

Hello, I'm new here and I had a question about an old model Earth Stove. I am wanting to know if it has a UL rating. Long story short, we need it for insurance. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

First post on this site. Lots of good info. Thought I would post a picture of my Earth Stove Hotshot. It is a fireplace insert model and we bought it back in the early 80's. It gives us about 75% of our heat.

 

Welcome Erik B

Its a little slow in the Pre-EPA forum, you're experience will be appreciated. I bet that Hotshot gets a good workout in WI

 

Welcome aboard Erik.