Earth Stone Mystery

To answer your question if a flue pipe damper will do the same thing;

A damper won't roll smoke down or prevent heat loss or change flow in firebox like a baffle plate. They both add resistance to flow;

A damper is a variable resistance. You only need one to slow a chimney with too much draft.
Rising gasses hotter than outside air rise up the flue creating low pressure area in flue, connector pipe and firebox. This low pressure area is what allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH oxygen into the fire box. Measured as draft, this is what makes the stove work. It is what brings the oxygen in to mix with flammable gasses. The larger the temperature differential, the faster the rise. Chimney flue diameter governs volume. The larger the volume, the more heat loss you need up the chimney. The object is keeping flue gasses above 250*f. to the top. So an indoor chimney, or an insulated liner works best keeping it hotter with less waste. So you can see a large chimney designed for a fireplace needs lots more heat than an insulated flue the size of the stove outlet. When people can't heat an area with the proper size stove, it is usually an oversize chimney needing so much heat the stove no longer has enough to radiate into the building to heat the area. hat is why without a baffle you couldn't heta the area. Too much heat loss up the stack that wasn't needed.

So the chimney is considered the engine that drives the stove. it creates a pressure differential. atmospheric air pressure and temperature among many other factors change, hence the adjustable damper.

The things that reduce draft are a spark screen at the top, connector pipe length, elbows, reducers or increasers, damper, firebox design including baffle plates and the most resistance is the air intake adjustment.

The damper controls draft by slowing the rising gasses or velocity. Angle of baffle adds resistance and decreases velocity as well. Slower moving out = slower coming in which means less oxygen and a sluggish fire. So angle is important and changes with chimney demands.
You need to get the velocity right with angle and the volume correct with smoke space.

Other improvements are notching the corners of baffle with about 2 X 3 inch cut out on the upper edge. This increases firebox turbulence (needed to mix air and fuel) and prevents stagnation in top firebox corners.

This is a "Smoke Shelf Baffle" designed by Fisher Research and Development;


This has been in use since 1983 and I never cleaned the plate or removed it. That is just the way it burns. It is 5/16 and still straight and I've overheated that stove on a few occasions. It was our only heat source so it was used hard.
Notice the large smoke space to allow for a larger than 6 inch chimney flue to be used. If you know you will be using a stove with the correct size chimney, you can decrease that smoke space area down to no less than the same square inch area of flue.
Make a template with cardboard and set in place until you get the right angle and that will give you an idea of plate size for the correct opening area.
Adjust opening area for more or less heat needed for masonry chimney compared to insulated prefab metal, indoor or outdoor that needs more heat, extremely tall or larger diameter flue that also requires more heat etc....
A starting point is; a straight up same size, insulated flue can use the minimum smoke space. That is the chimney system I tested all the Fisher models with.
Anything less efficient than that chimney set up requires larger smoke space area for more heat loss up chimney.

I don't suggest welding baffle supports in place since using bricks on the sides makes them adjustable and can be changed if moved to another chimney easily by sliding the side supporting bricks fore and aft to raise and lower front of plate to adjust smoke space as shown below;

You should be able to adapt all that Fisher information to your stove to fine tune the baffle for your chimney.

 

Hey Dave, I'm waiting for one of these in the mail ! Brass or bronze, it's going to look a lot different when you get to see it! eBay yesterday. You've got to step up your game man.

 

Thanks Eric, that's just the basics.
However you typed that, it tagged me in my email.

 

Yeah, that is the only one I've ever seen other than this one on CL. I offered the guy $100 for it and he wouldn't take it. The nice one was a 49.99 Buy it Now. Pays to wait....

 

Thank you Coaly for that information. It had occurred to me that the posts could hold a baffle at an angle. It makes sense that it would work well that way. What baffles me is that I cant find a baffle for this stove in any parts list, there is no mention of a baffle in the manual, and I haven't found a single picture of one of these stoves with a baffle. Im going to see if my steel plate will fit at the angle, but im sure its too big. I could cut it down to size. Before I do that, im going to do a few more "burns" with it in place horizontally and makes some observations about output and burn rate.. see if it holds a fire over night. Oh yeah... and see if I can cook a pizza on it!

On another matter.... just for the heck of it... here is a link to a you tube of a wood shed that I built. www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5SHKWPtNG8 Hope y'all like it.

Moose

 

Just before the 90's when Earth Stove went to Asian castings they started catalytic combustor stoves with the control on top at pipe connection. No idea what you have. The combustor sat on horizontal supports. They are over $200 now and the one for 1003-C closer to 300. That's why I recommend the smoke shelf baffle since testing showed how effective they were.

Make a cardboard template and cut it down until the correct smoke space is achieved. Then you know where to cut plate.
If you can raise the front up to increase velocity it will kick up your fire and radiate much more heat. To make it right, raise to the correct smoke space area.