Starting to take a better look at the saw, while trying to research the lengthy process of maintaining it. I unscientically looked at the cutter teeth by using a wood shim. I can see the teeth have a set to them. The center one is flush with the bottom of the shim, while the adjacent ones are close to the center of the shim. Its hard to see but, the face of the center tooth has a sharpened edge but im surprised how little bevel I see. Also it looks like using my primitive joiner tool, the tip of the center is shorter than the other. I didn't grab my feeler guage to measure it, but the nail gives you some idea of the difference. Looks like there is plenty to learn about this kind of saw!
This is the one i was looking for. Its 5 parts but covers everything you need to know. Dont say i didnt get you anything for your b day
Well I got impatient and put both to use this am, even before I could could get the rust off the saw. Backwoods Savage, even if I don't make it up for the gtg, for you want me to mail the saw up so you can tell the guys they don't have to bring their chainsaws? It only takes a "bit" longer to do some bucking with it. Here is my first cut on a small piece of elm. I know the saw is meant for soft wood, but the softest wood I get is silver maple. From chainsaw experience and from what I read it needs a tune up as all it was kicking up was sawdust. I put the splitting axe to work on some silver maple and some elm. I have to adjust my swing because the handle length is much shorter (25" to the bottom of the head) then my maul of Fiskars. I think I'll do some looking for the handle guard and saw tools today.
schlot you're going to get all that rust off the saw just by using it! Yes, it can be done that way. We'd much rather have you at the GTG rather than the saw. Seems to me I filed one of those saws one time and swore I'd never do it again. If it won't cut silver maple, it definitely needs some filing work.