Dvl stove stove pipe outlet connection question

That's awful. Is there a missing adapter that should have come with the stove ?

 

No, the reversible outlet is what comes standard with the stove. It is just a little different in design made more for single wall outlet connections.

I went with dvl for reduced clearances to the wall and to keep the flue temps higher.

 

In your situation I would trim the outer wall but not with snips. I would use a die grinder with the cut off wheel. Zero distortion but really loud. Be sure that the shaft of the key damper is high enough to allow the taper of the inner wall to seat.

 

Good way to end up with some nice grinder stripes across the paint IMO...those things are very hard to hold steady...a 4" angle grinder however is much easier to hold accurate to the cut line and doesn't tend to take off across the work when it catches, you will however have to make sure you don't go through the inner wall...go slow n easy, should work very well.
But I've done a good bit of sheet metal work, and my first choice would still be a nice sharp (fairly new) set of red aviation tin snips.
Interesting tidbit...my neighbor is a tin knocker for the local HVAC shop...he said he goes through a set of Wiss snips every few months...as soon as the edge is off the tiny little teeth, he chucks 'em.

 

I figure I just need to get the crimps on the dvl adaptor into the stove outlet and it should be good.

I'll scribe the crescent with a soapstone crayon and snip it out. I'll have to check my snips and see if they have "teeth" that could remain. I can always use a small drum sander on my Foredom for clean up.

 

Still looks like a 5 to 10 degrees of error, that's a lot for a wood stove .

 

Maybe they never really intended for this stove to hook up to double wall, or if they did, not the DVL brand adapter that might be different than just shoving the end of the double wall pipe into the collar. Some stoves don't play well with an appliance adapter, I know my cast iron hearthstone collar was a bad fit to the adapter but perfect for the end of the pipe.

So fishingpol , have you tried skipping the adapter with key damper and just setting the DVL pipe right into the stove? You can add a damper section up higher.

 

From the manual.


I did a lot of researching. The videos on the Tibe showed dropping the adaptor right on the outlet. Theirs just seated better.

The telescoping dvl does not have the crimped end that the adaptor has, so no go.

Like brenndatomu mentioned, the Selkirk has the adaptor and it is single wall at the bottom to double wall.

I'm sure Jotul has a reason for the design. Maybe more European owners use single wall than double wall off the stove.

My old Jotul F3 had a piece of single wall for the outlet of the stove, no cast collar like the Castine has.

 

I'm working on the new hearth this weekend and I need to plumb a line down to the center of the DVL stove connector.

I put a new outlet gasket in place and bolted it down.

I set the DVL connector and figured I needed to take about an inch off the front. I made a paper template and taped it to the connector and snipped it out.



Sorry about the sideways pic.



After setting it down in place, I marked and drilled holes for the cast outlet collar.



The bolts go through the outer and inner walls of the DVL adaptor.



The bolts are a little long and the damper hits them at about 80 maybe 85 degrees open. I can get shorter screws, but I'm happy the way it is. A little touch up and I'm in business. The connector is very secure.

 

Highbeam ,I had a chance to try this. The DVL directly on the cast stove collar fits but barely sets down. The elongated holes for the sheet metal screws would not align even close to the threaded holes in the cast. This may work for other stoves with a thinner steel outlet collar. It does look cleaner though...

 

Myself and many others do not install screws connecting double wall to the stove collar. Several reasons including you would crush the outer wall if you tightened them.

 

Looks like excellent results!

You don't have to torque it down tight and crush the outer wall...it does need to be pinned though!