That's what am shooting for, waiting to hear back. I paid 60$ for it!!! I didnt think was bad at all but again am that guy who just bought wet wood lol...... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Oh, and you're correct that Pine isn't the best, but perfectly fine. Lots of folks burn nothing but Pine of some type or another.
Think someone asked if I had a good covered place to dry it out. Just finished this on Sat!! Just need to put little floor down. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Great attitude. So, $120 for a full cord of Pine? Seems a bit pricey for Pine, but I pay $165 for Oak.
Idk, does not sound right to me. Granted I've only burned lodgepole pine. It was always a few years old, well seasoned, low humidity so almost tinder dry. I pulled off stacks for 20 years in the rain and heavy wet snows that were melting on it and it lit and burned. We had a wicked bad year in new home in 2013/14 and had to buy an extra 3 cords, WET, splits were HEAVY (nope, not rain or snow). Hard to light, keep lit, and brought up other problems from the 1952 setup here when we bought the home (after burning 5 dry cords that winter already, the last three ). Spooky stuff whether it be new or old creosote.
+1 Show him some dry wood & his wood on a MM. May get a price break. But like most worth while lessons learned, they are not free
If wood wasn't hygroscopic and absorb moisture like a sponge there would not be hundreds of thousands of logs littering the bottoms of any lakes that were used to float harvested timber to processing facilities. Years ago, some losses to sinking were as high as 40% . Recovering those 1st cut timber logs from the bottoms of lakes is big business today and a source for valuable old-growth timber.
I've got a lot of Austrian Pine here that was planted in the public works projects back in the day. Several die every year & I wait for a couple years to cut them. That stuff will not dry in the round. I've had stacked rounds rot from the inside & never dry. Split it & it'll dry in two or three months & burn well. Doesn't split real nice due to knots either. I'm kinda tired of it, but it's on my property so what else do I do. Stacked in the wind, that stuff should be good for Spring shoulder season. Keep an eye out for standing dead Elm or Ash trees for more immediate use. Often the limbs & upper trunks are very dry & burn well right away.
billb3 huge difference between gaining moisture from RH in air and being submerged in water and sunk.. Which could be caused from mud, weeds ice etc
H2O molecules all look alike to me. Have you ever had to shave 1/32 from an entry door made of solid pine in the middle of Summer because the wood swelled from absorbing the moisture from New England's notorious high humidity ? Same H2O molecules, being absorbed by the wood. Because wood is hygroscopic it seeks equilibrium with the environment surrounding it. Bring a piece of wood to the desert where the RH is 6% and the wood will lose moisture and equalize at 6%, bring that same piece of wood to New England where it might be 15% and the wood will slowly absorb the moisture until it equalizes at 15%. Lay that on the wet ground and the part on the ground will equalize with the ground. Just like a sponge. Just the way it is.
Too bad ya dont live closer to me....theres an auction held twice a week that guys bring in various loads of firewood. Average price of an 8ft bed heaped full of oak,ash,locust,hickory,etc..16-18"..split...60-75 bucks...if you know who to buy from... its almost always ready to burn...
Yes being a landlord many times.. Next time ill put moisture meter in it. I'd be amazed if its over 20% but guarantee it won't be 85% plus moisture content to match the RH. But that not point of this thread.
Very nice wood shed ya built there... If i may make a suggestion...if it were me ..id definetly put 4x8x16 cap blocks under all the legs...lowes has them pretty cheap...JMO
What’s that whole thing about being shrink wrapped? That sounds to me like that’s the cause of your issue. Plastic traps moisture within as well as keeping it off. You need open air flow and being wrapped in plastic prevents air flow. The wood cannot dry out. If it was dry at one time and then shrink wrapped but the slightest hole let in any water that moisture will be trapped in your wood and it won’t be able to evaporate off. You will then have the problem you’re having. “Naked” wood can get properly seasoned and if it does get rain on it, it can still dry out again in a few days.
ReelFaster , if you’re looking for a source of downed firewood that should be good for this winter, consider getting a firewood cutting permit at Joint Base McGuire Dix Lakehurst. Not sure if it’s open to the general public or not. If you don’t have military connections, you can see if WeldrDave has any recommendations... on the south side of the base just northeast of Browns Mills, I’ve seen a ton of dead and down and dead standing oak that would certainly be at a lower moisture content than what you currently have with that pine... here’s some info. $20 a cord... perhaps a fellow hoarder has cut there before.. Forest Products - Joint Base McGuire-Dix-Lakehurst - iSportsman https://jbmdl.isportsman.net/files/Forest Products/firewoodflyer_DixMcGuire 071218.pdf
Equalize at 6% what? 15% isn’t high humidity.. far from it.. there are usually only a handful of days in New England when the lowest humidity for the day is 15% or less... and I’m not talking about conditioned space...
