Search. sirbuildalot found old threads. No spoon feeding here. Point your savvy brain at the search tool.
Some stoves for what ever reason dont work in certain situations, I have a PE Summit that gave me fits, so i had many people giving me all sorts of advice. Ranging from wood not dry to me being mentally challenged, the Drolet fixed the problems except for me being mentally short changed.
No info in THESE POSTS. "Savvy brain" out. Spoons put away Eric. No time on this end to take doing endless searches just to be right. Gold stars on sirb's forehead ; "old threads" ! . Wood to cut, stoves to fill, climbs to do, voluntary jobs to do for the community, and little diddling online for ancient threads. Trying to help the O.P. with some obvious facts NOT in this thread without ad hominum attacks on the poster. End.
Ya those trees do seem to possibly pose a drafting problem.I have a maple close to my stack but this time of year the leaves are gone and I have the draft inducing vacuum stack chimney cap that helps produce a good draft.It seems to do the trick for the pass several years.Hopefully the poster will try the cap.It's a great product for draft problems.
You know, it those trees were solid like a privacy fence...... maybe then. But spaced the way they are and with no leaves..... IDK. I suppose at this stage, there are many little fixes for improvements but only a couple big fixes. Higher stack. Different stove. And in that case, we can all live through pages of another stove assessment and redesign by an amateur.
Well,I have not burned firewood for years,but stumbled across this thread.and amazes me how some think all stove installs,flue installs will work for all situations, and that all units of the same design are all built exactly the same.ESW has its share of quality control issues,to the point they have their own rebuilding/sales center.Anyway,checking out this model stove,seems they may have had a batch with poor draft and smoke out the door when reloading.From the different sires I checked,1/4 of the reviews were negative,with this complaint.Seems the general fix,for some,was drilling the dog box hole out to 3/8", and drilling out the hole in the ash cover to 1/2"
I tried it, didn't work for my setup. Oh, and sending expensive electric up the flue, not cool in my opinion.
Since only a few self-appointed experts have right answers, here goes before "IT WAS COVERED" flame from a long ago historical post that is errrrr....well known ( ) : 1. Increasing primary air works often. Advised by a Jotul engineer years ago, I drilled extra holes in the Oslo dog house. Did the job WITH fine draft and the 3-2-10 ( or 10-3-2 ! )flue. Excellent. 2. Tree crowns and trunks without foliage will ( not can) create downdrafts when too close to flues. It depends on prevailing winds. It's why we climb to clear branches and soft or hardwood trees that surround flues. Fire Marshal and Forestry Dept recommendations are to clear ~ 30' around buildings anyhow. 3. Just say no to draw collar, draft inducer, or flue damper IF the stove is good. ( I stihl use a 70's non EPA steel Tempwood ( no tubes. No cat.) in the workshop. Draws well WITH a short stack. It's been lent to contractor friends for quick heat when building before they get a salamander.) Non expert out.
Been away for a while everyone; but I decided to click into the site today to peruse and see if I was missing anything new or important. Really didn't mean to be so absent for so long, but I just got tired of the which stove, which saw, which stacking method, which mall, which hydraulic splitter, which chimney pipe, which hazel, and the wicked witch of the West threads. This thread caught my eye for some reason though.......... Good to see after coming back...........................that nothing has changed....................same folks complaining about the same thing they've always been complaining about..............and doing nothing really meaningful to fix it, except to complain some more. I'll go peruse some more..............