Door Gasket Needs Relacement

Here’s what the gasket looks like now.



But upon closer inspection this insert miserably fails the dollar bill test along the top center section. I placed a straight edge along the stove at the top of the door and find that is is bowed in enough to see a gap when I shine a light behind it. Sides and bottom are tight. I think I got an issue......

 

Try Dirko next time.

 

So, I looked in my manual for my stove. You guys went believe it, except Paul bunion will, but there is ZERO mention of the door gasket in the manual. They mention the window gasket and that they may need to be replaced, but no part number for the door gasket, or the window gasket. Plus no mention that the door gasket may need replacing ever.

 

So, what do you do , go by the Online manual ? .625" rope gasket.

 

I'm not certain. Paul bunion shows what fit in his, and it looks like 3/4". Here's the door latch I have. It's this what you have Paul? Mine's given me zero issues.

I a bought 3/4" and have it on hand. I think I'll buy 5/8" rope gasket and high temp silicone and assume one of the two will work. I can't measure the gasket channel now as my stove is really hot, but I should. It looks like my gasket is ok for now, hopefully it holds on until spring. I just think it's weird that my manual doesn't give a part number or even mention the door gasket. I can't imagine that they changed the casting on the newer model 4100, when they added the ACT vs mine that is an I model. The ACT model is the newer one, but that just added the auto fire start from what I can tell.

 

Horkn We seem to have different beasts.

 

Well, once you take the old one off , You can do a dry fit by taping Each size gasket on the door , Blue painter tape Not as sticky as others

 

https://downloads.hearthnhome.com/serviceParts/4100i-ACT.pdf

Looks like there are two latch versions. You seem to have version 1.
Assuming this document is all inclusive, the proper rope for the door is 5/8 on all models.

 

Yeah, the 3/4" I have just looks entirely too big to fit in the channel. Thanks for the update !

 

Yeah, that's definitely different than what I have. My latch never is as difficult as some people say their latch on their 4100i is.

 

Ok, my top of the door, just the large center area, failed the dollar bill test. I used a pliers and smooshed it and it passed then. The gasket in the door it's definitely not 3/4. 5/8" has to be right.

 

Sounds like ya got it figureated out, you can still do a dry fit first

 

Another gasketing tip: scotch tape the ends to keep the ends tight and when cutting to length, it prevents unraveling loose ends. The tape burns off.
Also if the front door or ash door can't come off for installation, tape the gasket with scotch or masking tape to the door to hold it in place.
The bill is in the mail.

 

Dirko is the way to go. It’s a quality RTV-like compound that is used in Stihl and other German equipment. I highly recommend it for stove gaskets.

 

We are in the process of replacing the gaskets for our Jotul F500, and can anyone tell us what tool to use to cut the fiberglass gasket rope? Thanks!
Well Seasoned?

 

I've used scissors, or utility knife.
I've learned not to use my wife's good fabric scissors though.

 

Thanks!

 

I'll be tackling my due gasket replacement again now. I'll need to buy a 5/8" gasket. Does anyone need a 3/4" gasket?

 

Something of mine would be hanging in my wife's sewing room if I did that.
Possibly removed with a dull pair of her Ginghers. JK of course. She wouldn't want them contaminated.