It's not just 2 stroke engines that suffer from running WOT. Even with the modern engine speed limiters a 4 stroke car or bike engine is easily damaged that way unless it is thoroughly warmed up first.
Maybe the punks at rk think they are sweet back there makin a bunch of big boy noise i dunno... not all of them tho we have one guy who is a stihl rep/mech at our rk who knows what he is doing and is a good dude who will help out when needed. Even lets you borrow a tool etc if needed. If he trusts you that is
Today i WOT a 441 C for 10 minutes no load...................................................... its not my saw
I'm still here. Been busy. If they are starting it and immediately holding it WOT for more than an instant, that's a bit extreme. But after a solid 10 seconds of runtime, they're good to go really. Our pre-delivery run was start it, let it idle to make sure it does so without incident. Then run it 1/3 - 1/2 speed for a few seconds before pegging it and checking it with a tach. Usually by the time that was done, you knew if it was oiling or not. But there were a couple that needed a good 5-10 second blast to get everything flowing.
If all I am doing is checking an oiler I only run it up to half throttle with the bar, chain, and clutch cover removed so I can see the oil coming out and how much is coming out. If checking the tuning you have to check it at WOT. No need to hold it there for an extended amount of time. Just so I can make sure it is 4 stroking. I also keep a big round behind the shop so that I can put the saw in it and make sure it is tuned correctly.
In my country i have see many peoples they go to a dealer they buy a new saw and then they put it to idlling until spend one or two tanks. one day i ask why you do this they tell me for make better sit the rings- pistons e.t.c. then i ask them so if you buy a new car you tell to the dealer to start it up and spend two tanks and then you go for take it ??? maybe need two days until spend two tanks idlling
X2 on top of that I try to keep cutting a little light if possible until it's really warmed up, I treat a cold saw that hasn't run in a while like I treat my first day off after working to many hours for to many days straight, I take my sweet azz time before I get into the day full tilt
The absolute best thing you can do for a new saw is fire it up, and bury the bar in a log. Don't baby it, don't pound wedges with it. Just load that motor and hold it wide open. Fully loading the engine (not to the point of it stalling but just pulling hard and happy in the cut) will seat the rings better than idling through a few tanks of fuel, or any other secret recipe.
That is how we break-in aircraft engines. Run em hard (75% power or above), those who baby them the first few hours may find that their rings never seat. Greg
Per the advice here I've worked (not beat) my saw like a rented mule on its first outing. I didn't no-load WOT it for the first few tanks. When I got it at the dealer they fired it up..blipped the throttle a few times and brought it back inside. Presuming there's no need to tach a mtronic saw? A certain family member like to cut with his saw at half throttle. He thinks it is easier on the saw despite me telling him otherwise.
Personally I don't trust any of my local dealers with anything of mine. I'll buy parts and fix it myself, or just put it in the closet and forget about it. When I got my $18 028 WB all my local dealers told me that they could not get the parts from Stihl, which I believe. But then they (at least 3 different dealers) told me there was absolutely no place to get the parts but they would give me $150~$200 trade-in on what was a supposedly useless saw. Turns out the electronic ignition can be had for like $25. But for workmanship alone, my first decent dealer screwed up some other equipment WAY too bad to trust them with a saw. They pressed a universal joint into the square side of a john deer PTO, but never pressed the bearing caps in all the way. One of them did not have the ring seated. When I brought the shaft back another guy said "that is all messed up and extremely dangerous, who did this?". Since then I have fixed all my own saws (and PTO shafts). But think about it, how many people in your line of work are incompetent bafoons? A chainsaw dealer is not immune to that cross section of bafoonery.
That story reminds me of what happened to my best friends Dad. He had his trans go out for the second time in his mid 70's Chevy 4x4. Took it to local trans shop to have them look at it. Owner called him and said he found the problem. He said this trans was rebuilt and whoever did it, didn't know what the +^#( they were doing. It was then he told him,"You guys did it." Took the bill in and he had a different tune needless to say.
When I was looking at sharpening tools at my local Stihl store I was asking about the available raker files and the salesman told me I didn't need one because their shop never used one when sharpening a chain for a customer. I hope that is not true but at least the salesman was a buffoon.
Dad bought a saw from a dealer who said the bar was bad as they just sharpened the chain so he sold it cheap. Wanted dad to by the bar and he said no to which dealer said, "You'll be back!" Dad did go back and and dealer got a big smile on his face and said, "See, I told you you'd be back for a bar" Dad said it was just the rakers weren't adjusted and he just wanted an air filter. It's everywhere and the said part is this was a saw shop and that was all they did.
Half throttle cutting with a saw? That will be hard on not right..dont get the max air flow over it and the optimum fuel ratio when running plus its lugging the motor!
