First off.. thanks for all the help everyone. Got into it a bit today.. billb3 I couldn't remove fuel bowl as I don't have a stubby screwdriver that will fit in there. A ratchet with a 1/4" socket and a screw bit barely fit, but I would've stripped the screws. Spark plugs look good, but will replace the champion RC12YC plugs. I've never had any bad experience with Champion plugs, but have heard many people have. Fuel filter and a new air filter will be in the mix, even though the air filter looks like new, may keep as backup. Question for those in the know.. There is a vacuum nipple on the backside of the air intake, but no line attached, no cap to plug it off, and for the life of me I can see no other vacuum ports. Should this be?? In my experience, if there's a vacuum nipple, there should be a line attached. Vacuum line to the vacuum-run fuel pump is not clipped in any way, once again, vacuum leaks cause many problems. Finally, a look at the fuel filter, you can imagine the gas that was drained. It was dark enough to resemble oil. So.. Seafoam Fuel filter Air filter Plugs Fresh gas Am I missing anything?
I have a LT1050 at the shop that looks identical to yours. I've had it for about 5 years and had a few minor maintenance issues but all in all it's been a good machine.
Well, now I'm in a bit of a situation. Stopped by the Cub Cadet/Kubota/Stihl dealer today to pick up needed parts. Tell them the mower model, she brings up parts, air filter isn't right, and branded Kohler. Computer lookup says that this mower should not have a 26hp Briggs engine. She informed me on where to find model/serial # info. Google search shows it should have a 19hp Kohler engine. Closest CC machine that I saw using this engine is a zero turn model. Now, I'm certain I can get the engine running right, but what problems am I facing using an engine with an additional 7hp coupled to the hydrostatic transmission???? Some days you're the windshield, some days you're the bug.
Well, I've never been one to say "This engine has too much horsepower!!" But since it's been indicated that he hydro transmission is a weak link, is it advisable to add additional hp?
Eh, run what you brung. Maybe those that have had tranny troubles ( lol Eric VW ) have used it to tow heavy stuff, not just mow the lawn?
Run good belts on the deck and the drive to the deck. My mom's had alignment issues and would chew through anything but the "Bladerunner" belts from NAPA. It still threw belts occasionally, but at least she got a couple years out of a belt.
Tranny issues- it is not an hp input thing- 90% of the units out here are running the same make transaxel- there are 3 levels of same 4x , 5x, 6x series. the 4x is a sealed system usually lasts around 100-150 hr depending on terrain and definitely not a unit for ground contact equipment - many have tried rebuilding these- less than adequate results. 5x better internals and is serviceable as far as changing fluid not sure if the filter is able to be changed. 6x external oil filter fully serviceable. Units with a list price under $1500 generally have 4x, 15-25+ 5x . Days of the bullet proof trans in in-expensive mowers( relatively speaking) is long gone . Note that most of the box store units are built by the same company to a specific brand name style. Think GM -chevy , olds, buick, pontiac, caddy. just a quick overview of lawn tractors, it isn't much different with the box store zero turns either. The hydro drives are not rebuildable in a lot of those. Spent a fair amount of time digging into this awhile back.
Thanks chris From some research, the owners manual states that the HST is model.. Hydro-Gear 311-0510 Not sure what series that falls under, but I'm sure it's a lower end transmission. The model # of the tractor is.. MODEL NUMBER 13BX11CG710 We'll see how things pan out after I get the engine running right. Thanks again for the helpful information.
Chaz- I researched the 311 hydro gear tranny- it is repairable to some extent- there is a filter in it although to change it require removal from unit. Seems the stalling out on an incline ( not the eng) is a2 fold problem. 1 installing new fluid and filter ( 5w20 syn) helps considerably, 2 drive belt- seems they used a multipurpose pulley on the eng that accepts multiple size belts there for it is not getting the proper amount of friction hence slips even with an OEM new belt. If there are sparkles ( metal bits) in the old oil it will require a more in depth repair which may or may not work out. These transaxels are made or assembled in Il. The other I was referring to were from a Canadian co.( Can't recall name ) but I do not know if Hydrogear is that particular co. as I did not research the corporate structure. I have a jd 120 don't know age around 160 hrs on it - at my old place I had a moderately steep long incline and it would slowdown as you climbed the incline never stopped completely but is what led to the investigation in the first place. The stalling or slowing down was accelerated by high temperatures. Temperature problems in Hydro transmissions is nothing new to me- snow plowing or heavy towing is hard on units and learned to keep a close eye on tranny temps.
Thanks much chris That's valuable information if this thing has transmission issues. Fortunate part is that the "rolling chassis" has the transmission intact as well. So, first off, get engine running properly and see what's what, if it has transmission issues, then I've some choices to make. I've no idea on the condition of the"spare" transmission, so it's a "crap shoot" there.
