Considering running OAK up flue?

Besides Englander inserts and other stoves, I have personally installed a Harman P52i and a Harman Accentra insert both with the optional air adapters with 3" liners up a 25 foot chimney and a 30 foot chimney with no problems. They both burn great and there is no way for water to leak in.
Also no way for the heat in the room to escape up the chimney through an open air vent.

 

Don do you have pictures of either of those installs? Or any install of this type, for that matter? I'd like to see what it looks like at the top, specifically what mechanisms are in play to ensure flue gas and ash can't make it into the air intake. The Harman manual (for my stove) simply states the flue exit and air intake entrance need to be at least 12" apart.

 

Thanks a lot, I figured as much. I just love the idea of the design. Well, one day if/when another stove goes in, I will definitely be taking a closer look at Selkirk!

 

You can add an extension to the flue top but this setup works fine.

Pic 1 - Flue top and fresh air top
Pic 2 - Liner's and damper shelf stuffed with 100% fireproof roxul R23 insulation stops room heat cold from rising out of chimney
Pic 3 - Clean fresh air in stove's intake tube and cleanout T for flue connection.

 

I really luv the optional vacuum cleanout elbow on my Selkirk cleanout-T ! ! !

 

the instructions for both of those units say that you have to use a blockoff plate, insulated in either install.....so, no heat escaping up the chimney anyhow. One thing I worry about is restricted air intake through a 30' intake pipe....what did the draft look like, pre-burn?

 

good pics..a few good things in them, some not so good.
1. I like the hose clamp connection of the intake- we do the same thing..easily removeable, to check intake damper.....better than foil tape or RTV
2. I like the face of the intake isn't flush with the top, causing possible blockage issues in wintertime, or water entering the intake

other things:
1. intake is in pretty close proximity to the exhaust...separation might be better
2. you might be better served with a blockoff plate instead of just stuffing insulation into the damper...it can fall out, and technically isn't sealed. The stove in the pic isn't a 52i or an Accentra Insert, but if they were, the directions require that you do use a blockoff plate...now, as for whatever brand is in there, I cant comment on their instructions.
3. make sure to tell customer to clean the screen on the spark arrestor...they clog.....

 

Hello
Thanks for your comments. A block off plate alone does not insulate.
I agree that a block off plate if required can certainly be added below the insulation.
Neither way of doing this is perfect but good to compare and let people choose what is best for them.

 

A block off plate doesn't insulate, which is why we put insulation above it, as per the instructions, but you cannot see that from below. At least the blockoff supports the insulation as well. I guess the most "perfect" way of installation is following the instructions of the UL listed appliance, since code (state, and barring that, NFPA 211) dictates that you have to follow said instructions. I have yet to have any inspector actually pull an insert out to check insulation, or blockoffs, or whatever, they just seem happy to collect the money and sometimes check exterior clearances.

Below is the installation manual for the 52i (the old Accentra Insert hasn't been produced in a couple years)....

http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/ACC52i_I.pdf

if you go to Chapter 4, starting on page 10, you'll see that it specifically noted to use a steel plate to seal off the damper, and to insulate above it, furthermore, also says that insulation alone should not be used to seal the damper opening....so, when we install these babies, we follow the instructions. Note though, that in Don's pics above, that stove is not a Harman product, and may have a different set of installation instructions.

 

The.new Harman 52i manual does outline what you describe in detail for fresh air where other Wood Pellet FPI manuals do not. That is why I use this system I described because it is the best system for all stoves and with a block off plate when needed will meet all codes. Some manuals even say to pull fresh air from "down through the ash dump" but our system is cleaner and safer and more consistently installed for the most reasonable price.

 

did you call scott williamson? i'm further away, and he still came out and fabbed me a custom air box (as my stove is not 'true' outside air... the pipe ends 'near' the stove intake, so i had him make a manifold out of ductwork), included his custom cap, running the oak pipe and the pipe it self and it was WELL under the price you speak of, parts, labor, and transportation costs.
he probably won't get to you before next year, but i highly suggest you make the call.

 

Hello
Can you post pics? We would like to see them.

 

i can take some from the ground later... i hate heights so going on a ladder is not fun for me

 

best i can do from the ground.

intake is on lower floor. then there's a divider plate, then the exhaust comes out about an inch up above the plate on the 2nd floor.

4" exhaust to 3" reducer on the stove
2" intake all the way in

 

Interesting, 4" diameter is ideal for exhaust liner but some manuals state if going more than 6' on the intake run it must be 3" diameter flex.
Also the collinear cap must be Stainless steel not aluminum. How high is your chimney? Did you test it with the intake liner off to see if there is a difference?

 

maybe the intake is 3"... i can't remember now. I dont know what material its made out of. I didn't have an oak for 5 years. the stove runs great with the oak on, no loss of flame so its getting plenty of air.

chimney is ~1.5 stories (1 floor, plus the half pitch of the roof.

 

Thanks for the pictures B. Can you explain more clearly what you meant by this? Having a hard time picturing that.

 

so my stove is stupid... it has a 2" round mount for the oak, but it doesn't actually hook up to the intake of the stove. It kinda just brings the outside air in 'close' to the stove intake.

I've heard it called 'almost outside air' in other circles.

the intake is actually on the other side of the ignitor, but you can't see if in this pic. but basically, he made an intake manifold that fits into the rectangle port of the actual fire box to connect to the pipe flange which i 'drew' in red here:

 

4" is easily the most common flex exhaust diameter, we generally won't hook up to 3" due to the restriction. The OP wasn't sure what the intake is, but yea, for 15 feet, 2" might be inadequate for a stove able to put out a higher btu rate.
And yea, NFPA211 does state that all materials in the exhaust need to be non-corrosive. Aluminum would be wholly unsuitable in any exhaust other than gas due to its low heat resistance, and the fact that it does not hold up well in corrosive environments. I didn't see where the OP mentioned the type of metal though.
I would want to see before and after draft readings to ascertain the viability of this. Seems to work for briansol though....just don't assume it will work for everyone.