combustable clearance question

Hi guys.
Getting a liner installed today in my chimney. This is a basement install for the wood stove.
Concrete floor, block walls about 7' high, open rafters. The thimble is about 14" down from the rafters. Next year I'm planning to raise the house 32"(4 courses of block.) But for now this is how it will be.
So the question is, is 14" from the top of the connector pipe to the rafters safe?
I'm thinking I might put up 2 layers of drywall above the stove. Maybe a 8x8 area.
What's your thoughts ?

 

I have a heat shield for on top of your stove pipe to decrease clearances to combustibles. It just sits on top of the stove pipe with spacers. I didn't think you'd need it. The owners manual tells you clearances. Read it

 

If you're using single wall pipe, CtoC is 18"
Can be reduced if you use a shield to 6" from a wall or 8" from the ceiling.

Edit: Double post, Brian is quick.

 

Is that for open rafters or for drywall? Or doesn't it matter?

 

I would if you had given it to ME!!

 

I brought it 45 miles to dinner.

You couldn't get it the last three miles to home?!?

Geez, kids these days.

 

And when did you tell me it was there?
2 minutes after I posted this question. lol

 

I edited to include shielded measurements. Measurements vary for ceiling vs wall, but not by material.

 

Hoping to get it hooked up today and start my first fire
If I do get it goin...I'm gonna sit in front of it all nite... drinking eggnog moonshine and watching the flames!


Do you guys open a window to make sure your draft stays good?

 

TD if the stove has been exposed to humidity and moisture for long, you need to do a couple of small break in fires. Shouldn't take long. Brian probably mentioned it if he thought it was necessary.
You shouldn't need to crack a window but basements can be a little odd. If the wood is sluggish to get going try it. The window not the moonshine

 

Brian was using the Fireview until he got the Ideal.
It went straight from his house to my basement. I just put in a new oil furnace and the duct work isn't in yet. So my basement is hotter than the hinges of #$!!. And dryer than........

 

And you are going to build a fire down there and,
"...sit in front of it all nite... drinking eggnog moonshine and watching the flames!"?

 

Redneck sauna?

 

Is the chimney thimble insulated? If not it needs to be 18".

 

CTC....Clearance to combustibles. Rafters/floor joists would be considered combustible.
Answer is in the description.
ETA: Check section #3 for CTC's......http://www.woodstove.com/pages/guidepdfs/wood_stove_install.pdf
Here's some good info on basement install for Woodstocks......http://www.woodstove.com/pages/guidepdfs/BasementInstall.pdf

 

Alzheimer's. Careful there Bro, it runs in the family.

 

Whooohooo! I'm about 7 hours into the first fire. It's going to take some getting used to. I haven't fired a wood stove in thirty years! Basement is toasty warm and the first floor is holding at 68-70. About the same as when I was using the oil furnace. Feels good! Probably sit up all nite and watch it. Ohh...did I tell ya the oil furnace is turned OFF

 

What kind of stove top temps were you able to get?

 

stove top 500-600*
Need to check the moisture level of the locust splits. I had to mix the kiln dried with the locust and run the draft at 2 to get those temps
I'm really surprised that the flue temps are only 250-350.

 

The cat keeps the heat in the firebox so you don't lose the BTUs up the chimney.

I've got a spare maul at home if you need something to split with to check moisture levels.