In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Class A ID help

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by jtstromsburg, Nov 20, 2022.

  1. jtstromsburg

    jtstromsburg

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2016
    Messages:
    749
    Likes Received:
    5,592
    Location:
    Stromsburg, Nebraska
    I finally have a way to reach higher on my chimney to sweep it so want to add a couple feet and a new cap. I was at Menards and they have 6” class A labeled Super Vent by Selkirk which looks like a match. Bought a section and a cap but doesn’t quite match. It’s slightly larger diameter it seems.
    Anyone got an idea of what my existing pipe may be ? Just want a 2 or 3 ft piece, but I may replace three or four other sections as we had hail a year and a half ago and insurance is covering it. No reason to do that is the inside looks perfect and a couple small dents in the outer layer shouldn’t hurt anything, but if paid for I may do it and save the old.

    Thinking metalbestos maybe
     

    Attached Files:

  2. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

    Joined:
    May 29, 2015
    Messages:
    24,421
    Likes Received:
    158,218
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    No ID tag on any of the sections anywhere?
    It does look like a Selkirk product...maybe one of their more premium lines...like Superpro maybe?
     
    FatBoy85 likes this.
  3. jtstromsburg

    jtstromsburg

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2016
    Messages:
    749
    Likes Received:
    5,592
    Location:
    Stromsburg, Nebraska
    Lots of stickers that are faded to all just white :picard:

    I think it’s this, maybe
    Selkirk Metalbestos 6UT-36 Ultra-Temp Type Ht Insulated Chimney Pipe, 6 in X 36 in, Stainless Steel, 6" x 36" https://a.co/d/0yRNgXu
     
  4. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

    Joined:
    May 29, 2015
    Messages:
    24,421
    Likes Received:
    158,218
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    That's certainly a possibility too.
    No chimney parts inside (that are accessible) that might have a readable tag? Or one that is on the bottom, or at least away from the sun somewhere's?
     
  5. jtstromsburg

    jtstromsburg

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2016
    Messages:
    749
    Likes Received:
    5,592
    Location:
    Stromsburg, Nebraska
    Nothing obvious. But now that I’m searching again, there may be part of a tag behind a support strap on the roof! I’ll have to get back up there and take a peak
     
    brenndatomu likes this.
  6. moresnow

    moresnow

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2016
    Messages:
    1,803
    Likes Received:
    10,158
    Location:
    Iowa
    Is there Class A passing through an attic? That can be a good place to identify.
     
    brenndatomu likes this.
  7. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

    Joined:
    May 29, 2015
    Messages:
    24,421
    Likes Received:
    158,218
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    I thought that too...but IIRC this is a basement install, so I bet it goes out the basement wall and up...
     
    jtstromsburg likes this.
  8. jtstromsburg

    jtstromsburg

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2016
    Messages:
    749
    Likes Received:
    5,592
    Location:
    Stromsburg, Nebraska
    Yup. Out basement wall, actually just below grade into a T and then up the wall. Nothing under grade that I can see either.

    looks like the one behind the roof brace shows metalbestos so I’ll try and source some and give it a shot
     
    brenndatomu likes this.
  9. jtstromsburg

    jtstromsburg

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2016
    Messages:
    749
    Likes Received:
    5,592
    Location:
    Stromsburg, Nebraska
    This 6" x 36" Selkirk Ultra Temp Stainless Chimney Pipe - 206036U - Less Than Perfect
    Seems like about the best price I see. I’d probably pay the extra $20-30 for non-blem in case I need to return but it sure seems like this is the right stuff. I will call the previous owner and ask if he remembers also. With a basement install, I struggle with backpuffing, especially on cold starts (I preheat flue with torch) and when/if it’s real cold out and I don’t get to the stove for 8 hours.
    Was off last week when I woke up at 5:30 and the stt was 250f, but flue was cold to the touch and I had a terrible time reversing it yet there was enough coals in the stove that co was coming into the house. That’s when I shut it down and did a full clean, including pulling the stove off the hearth and vacuuming out the oak. The whole hearth is hollow and goes to basically a cold air return up the exterior wall and out 16” above grade. Chimney was clean, but I pulled the cap as there’s no rain or snow in forecast here and it seems to be part of the culprit.
    I think adding 2 or 3 ft will help considerably. At least I hope so. PO burned this stove and pipe since 89 ish and said other than cleaning the cap a couple times a winter plus a sweep once or twice, he didn’t have any issues. But he is a carpenter and was home more in the winter I imagine so could tend it more. Stove holds coals for 18 hrs, or at least I can reload with some kindling and splits without a match that often. My wood is all 2+ years except for some ash that I cut this summer but it’s showing right at 20% or less on a fresh split and lights right off with no sizzle. I have fought less than ideal splits until last year.

    fresh load just now. Loaded and shut the door and took a picture.
     

    Attached Files: