babaganoosh figuring the stove pipe was likely installed dead center of two rafters, you can locate rafters from the roof side if you have a good stud sensor. you can also get a measurement from the inside ceiling with or without a stud sensor. tapping on the sheetrock or other interior covering with the butt of a rubber handled hammer will give you different musical tones and you can pretty accurately find the rafters. then you know how far from the pipe they will be and be able to adjust for different interior and exterior pipe diameters. all of which,, is not necessary if you are referring here to a roof support bracket. anchoring them to the roof sheathing isn't ideal but structurally sufficient. we are all anal about doing work, so if you don't want the 'any port in a storm' sheathing fastening, you will be able to locate the rafters by hook or crook. an inexpensive stud sensor will be powerful enough to locate the rafters at least from the cathedral ceiling and then the measurements extrapolated to the roof. it was great to add to my chimney and get the IS working properly.
Stud sensor doesn't work on the roof top but good call on using it on the interior ceiling. I don't really have draft issues but adding the 3 feet certainly won't hurt. It will definitely kick shoulder season performance up a notch. Thanks chucker
I now understand the chimney being the engine that drives the stove. I was not getting sufficient draft through the unit for it to operate as it should. I think the reason the glass would soot up at the corners as I saw last year was that the air wash was only happening in the middle. I am thinking that it should be higher yet; to offset the 90 in the flue, but that is not going to happen until I can afford to rent a scissors lift. The weather is still nice here, with warm days not needing heat but cool nights that are a bit chilly. I will see how the unit does when the really cold weather hits and I am burning on a continuous basis.
It'll be better when it's cold. Did you switch out the 90° in the house? Forgive me I can't remember.
No, I did not. I was told that for each 90 in a system, flue, chimney, one needed to increase the height of the chimney. I have the 90 at the flue inside; and then the tee for the chimney makes the second 90.
Three or four, in the evenings. There were other days I wanted one but was waiting to get the chimney extended. Tonight is warm so I won't be building a fire tonight, and I think the warm will continue for a few days.
The 45°'s inside help as well. The added 3' outside definitely helps. But anything you can do to increase the draft will behoove you. I have 18' of class A outside, so my two 90°'s inside hurt nothing. It will draw small coals up the flue
Update: The stove still spills smoke; makes it hard to load and not fill house with smoke. I try to open door a bit to let fire burn hot and maybe reduce the smoke that spills out. Did not invest in the 45s at this time as I needed to save money due to some extra expenses that crept in last month. I am going to contact England Stove Works and talk with them about the stove.
Have you cleaned your chimney/stove pipe? I cleaned my chimney this summer but I never got around to doing the pipe on my wood furnace and with the recent cold snap coming in, I fired the furnace up only to find it smoking back when loading...which it never did before. I pulled the pipe apart and I am embarrassed to admit that it was in dire need of a cleaning...lots of dry fluffy brown soot buildup on the pipe walls. Now it is back to its former state...keep small animals away when the loading door is open!
Dry fluffy brown stuff Cleaning probably helped a lot! But you're doing it right!! Light brown and grey ash is all I've ever cleaned from my Wood stove flue.
I did a quick clean of the chimney but not the pipe. Was not much of anything since I only burned the stove a short time last year. I did not get the stove installed until some time in Jan/Feb; would have to go check.