Chimney and Stove selection, Englander Madison?

CoreyB before I joined fhc and I didn't know anything I did have a nc13. type that I ran for 2 years while saving money in that exact clay liner with concrete blocks around and brick faced chimney in my house ... it drafted chimney is 30 ft and draft was not a problem. My local fire department checked the chimney and determined it was safe
But if it was me in that size house I would definitely choose the larger model and nc30 type the 2.2 cubic foot fire box of the 13 type could not hold a fire for 4 hours in my house.. when I upgraded to the Woodstock ideal Steel that stove easily had 12 hour burn times I built a new chimney for it because we wanted it on a lower level in the house if you have any questions let me know

 

Ya the down side would be that would eliminate our garage heat. Which is pretty important to me. I basicly live out there in the winter. Keep in mind I have 6 YES ! SIX females! living in our 1,100 sq ft house. I eventually want to make the garage stove a wood furnace I can plumb into the current duct work. Which may be the best way to go I just don't think I can swing the extra cost of the furnace and insert. Vs a madison at $700 and chimney at ruffly $600. It is always a challenge to try and use my pennies wisely when they are so limited.

 

Ok serious question here guys. When you sweep out your chimney on a straight through the roof INSTALL, do you have to remove the chimney from the stove. Or does it all just drop on the firebox?
Also can you run single wall inside (before ceiling) and double the rest?
My thought is it would keep a bit more heat in the house.

 

I use single wall from the stove to ceiling to capture more heat and it works fine. Your cleanings certainly can drop right down into the stove......wont hurt a thing as long as there is no baffle or anything in the way.

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I will have to keep that in mind when purchasing. How easy or hard can make a difference of wether it gets done or put off.

 

So true! I have a Pacific Energy with a large stainless steel box baffle ( not tubes) and i need to remove it in order for the cleanings to drop in the box. It is a hassle so I usually just lift my pipe of the top of the stove and shop vac whatever has dropped. Fortunately I dont need to do it often as the stove burns very clean.

 

Another option would be to use double wall pipe inside, then you could install a telescoping section for easy removal if you ended up with a stove that didn't lend itself to easy baffle removal. As I mentioned before, modern stoves don't waste that much heat up the stack so not having single wall isn't going to make much difference on how well it heats your house...especially since it sounds like you are leaning toward getting a stove that is plenty big enough to do the job. Double wall will help keep the chimney a little cleaner too, drop the stack temp too much and you will start to get buildup at the top.
When you mentioned the Englander furnace before I was curious about the model number you listed. Turns out that is the brand new updated version of the old 28-3500 that was so admired by many. The new EPA certified 28-4000 is more or less a NC30 made into a furnace if I heard correct information. I see HD has 'em for $1250 or so. That's pretty cheap for a clean burn wood furnace, but I'm not sure it has thermostatic control like most furnaces. They do talk about a Tstat, but I'm not sure it controls the burn rate...maybe just kicks the blower on/off? IDK, not having Tstat isn't the end of the world, I put a temp controller on my Drolet Tundra furnace to keep the intake damper shut for most of the burn cycle anyways...that is the most efficient way to run a tube type firebox. Some things to consider...

 

Both of my stoves I've had single wall stove pipe on, I think it does add a little heat to the house, in your case it's going to cut the cost of your install some..
I've never had double wall pipe so I can't speak about that.
My stove uses 4 standard fire brick in the top for the baffle, I clean from top down once a year, I take those out (takes less than 5 minutes) , there is always some ash up on top of their that that you need to clean out anyway, with the baffle bricks out everything falls right into the stove.
I have a telescoping single-wall stove pipe but I never take that off when I clean the chimney, pipe and stove, .
With your single story installation I don't think you will have any problem with the pipe cooling too much and creating creosote, I don't

 

Do not go straight through on a tube stove BE careful. . frIends have hearthstone soapstone straight up install.. professional paid cleaner put pipe through tubes at top on 9 month old stove

 

Huh?

 

I dunno what you are talkin about, but it sounds

 

Alright, I am interested...any idea where that can be found?

 

a hearthstone soapstone uses tubes at the top of the Firebox instead of a catalytic converter they are some kind of ceramic tubes.. why I chose the Woodstock instead of hearthstone.. if you over fill your stove the tubes break..

so if a EPA tube stove on a vertical installation the brush coming down chimney can break the tubes.. probably much like Wild west the had to take her tubes out of insert to clean chimney