Changing Hydraulic Oil on splitter ,need some Info ??

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by HDRock, May 29, 2015.

  1. HDRock

    HDRock

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    What's the difference between AW32 and AW46 , does It matter which one I use ?
    This is why I think I need to change it ,looks pretty milky.
    As some of you may know I just bought this the other day off craigslist used.
    It seems to run and operate properly but this fluid does it look so good
    .
    So when I change it how do I get it all out?
    20150529_195253.jpg

    I was doing some searching to find out what filter I need to replace it with, and I am finding conflicting answers, some people say don't buy a frame it is junk, anyway I have picked out a couple of wix filters, win 51551 is a 10 micron, win 51553 is a 33 micron, so which do I want to buy??
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2015
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  2. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Ok I found 1 answer, 32 is lighter in 45 is heavier oil, 32 is 10w and 46 is 20w
    I will probably not be splitting in the winter
     
  3. HDRock

    HDRock

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    I am assuming because this splitter sat around and was not used, is why there is water in the fluid, would that be a correct assumption?
     
  4. papadave

    papadave

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    Just changed the filter on mine about a week ago, and I used AW32 when I changed fluid about 3 years ago. It's nice and clear, not milky. I did need to add a little when I did the filter.
    I'd definitely get that outta' there, and I think my filter is a 10 micron, but there is no marking on it.
    I may have gotten the filter at TSC, but I don't remember.
    The lower number will filter better.
    I haven't done much winter splitting the last couple years either, but it didn't seem to matter when I did.
     
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  5. 94BULLITT

    94BULLITT

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    The splitter was probably kept outside and water in the oil. I run ATF in my splitter. The manual said to run ATF at temps above 70*. Get the oil warm then drain it. You may want to put some cheap oil in it and run it a few hours then drain it again to get all the water out because when you drain it you will still have fluid in the cylinder and hoses. Napa sells wix filters and my buddies splitter takes the 1551, Wix just adds a 5 in front of it.
     
  6. papadave

    papadave

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    Excellent point.
     
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  7. HDRock

    HDRock

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    the guy that sold it to me said it was stored indoors but I had seen indications that it may have been outside for a while also, but at the same time I can tell it has not been used very much.

    I may have gotten some water in there myself, I did not realize that there was a hole in that breather deal, I had not read the whole manual yet, after I picked up the splitter I had made a wrong turn and ended up going a few miles down dirt roads with mud puddles, and there was mud all over my trailer and the splitter, so I stopped by at the quarter wash and blasted everything off, I just did a quick job of it though so , I'm guessing that is not the cause of that fluid being that milky.
    There is no NAPA store close by here so I will probably just get what they have at Tractor Supply which online they showed only couple they have for that is a Fram filter P1653A or a P1654A
    I can order a Wix off Amazon and change it out later
     
  8. Elderthewelder

    Elderthewelder

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    When I bought my I&O splitter off C/L it had water in the hyro fluids as well. So i drained the tank and also drained the cylinder and hoses by following the below instructions


    1
    . Drain the head end of the cylinder.
    a
    . Remove the spark plug wire and spark
    plug to help reduce the back pressure
    on the engine and to prevent it from
    starting.
    b
    . Disconnect return hose (1) from the oil
    filter housing and place it in a waste oil
    container. (Please properly dispose of
    the waste oil per local regulations).
    c
    . Extend the cylinder by holding the
    valve handle forward and pulling on
    the engine’s pull start cord until oil from
    the return line stops flowing. This step
    drains the head end of the cylinder.
    2
    . Drain the hydraulic tank.
    a
    . Place a waste oil container under inlet
    hose (2).
    b
    . Remove the inlet hose from the pump.
    c
    . Slightly lower the front of the log splitter
    to completely drain the tank.
    3
    . Remove and replace the oil filter.
    a
    . Remove the existing oil filter and
    properly dispose of it.
    b
    . Apply a thin coat of oil to the rubber
    seal of the new oil filter.
    c
    . Screw the filter
    onto the filter head.
    Once the filter makes contact with the
    filter head, turn it an additional 3/4
    turn. Hand-tighten only.

    4
    . Refill the hydraulic tank.
    a
    . Reconnect inlet hose (2) to the pump.
    b
    . Remove the hydraulic tank fill cap and
    fill the tank with the recommended
    type and quantity of oil. Replace the
    cap.
    5
    . Drain and refill t
    he piston end of the
    cylinder.
    a
    . Hold the valve handle in the retract
    position and pull the engine pull start
    cord until the rod is fully retracted.
    This step removes the old oil from the
    piston end of the cylinder.
    b
    . Reconnect return hose (1) to the oil
    filter.
    c
    . Extend the cylinder by holding the
    valve handle forward and pulling on
    the engine’s pull start cord until the
    cylinder is completely extended. This
    step refills the pi
    ston end of the
    cylinder.
    6
    . Start the engine and cycle the cylinder.
    a
    . Replace the spark plug and spark plug
    wire.
    b
    . Start the engine and cycle the
    cylinder several times.
    c
    . Retract the cylinder and shut off the
    engine.
    d
    . Recheck the hydraulic tank to make
    sure oil is filled within approximately
    one inch from the top of the tank.
    Replacement Filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NAPA 1553
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FRAM PF1654
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WIX 515
     
  9. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    The water is probably from power washing. Though it could be ambient moisture that got in through the breather as the tank air expanded and contracted over time.

    Water does not tend to stay in suspension over time. It mechanically agitated to form that milky emulsion. There are additives in the oil that promote separation.
     
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  10. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Sounds like that will do the trick, Thanks
     
  11. HDRock

    HDRock

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    yeah I had it running for about 5 minutes before I checked the fluid and took the picture, also I did not see any leaks anywhere so I'm assuming this is water in there and not air
     
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  12. prell 73

    prell 73

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  13. bogydave

    bogydave

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    New to you so changing the oil will be peace of mind, & it looks like a good idea
    with the milky color (not bad, will work but in cold weather it'll be hard on the pump)

    Dump a can of heat in there & run it pushing the ram in & out a bit before changing,
    should pick up any water & keep it suspended in the oil for draining.
    landing-heet.jpg


    Purge the pump, hoses & cylinder is an extra PIA but worth the effort to get the water out.

    Slosh around some diesel/heat (alcohol) in the tank & drain, will loosen up any gunk & water on the bottom of the tank.

    water gets in the the filler plug threads & vent hole. Thread tape & a cap/cover over the vent if it's gonna be stored outside
     
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  14. HDRock

    HDRock

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    it will be stored outside but will be kept fully covered, should I still have a cap and thread tape
     
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  15. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Picked up a 5 gallon pail of oil and a filter, the new splitter cover arrived today from Amazon, been raining off and on all day so couldn't really do much with it
    also picked up a bottle of heet, bogydave, are you sure it's okay to put that stuff in there? have you ever done it before?

    Thanks again Elderthewelder, those instructions are exactly what I was wanting to find out to get all that old oil out :thumbs:
     
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  16. Elderthewelder

    Elderthewelder

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    that was right out of my I&O splitter manual, what brand splitter is yours? should be able to get a manual for it
    http://www.ironandoak.com/uploadedfiles/manuals/MBHVH2213C.pdf
     
  17. bogydave

    bogydave

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    Probably be fine.
    Wonder how it got water in it. ?


    Yea, done it several times with different stuff, but not my splitter,
    But I would if mine had milky oil.

    You run ethanol gas in it ?
    Corn alcohol

    My concern has been water will cause rust ,
    I hate rust on the inside of my stuff with moving parts.
     
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  18. Elderthewelder

    Elderthewelder

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    my splitter has a little breather hole in the top of the hydraulic filler cap, so if splitter sits out in rain water can get in there, so i threaded a 90 degree barbed fitting in it and put a hose on it
    [​IMG]

    and added a drain hose for the engine oil as well
    [​IMG]
     
  19. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Thanks I will save that manual for reference

    It's a Huskee 22 ton http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/doin-some-splittin-with-my-new-milk-crate.12542/
    I have a manual I downloaded and the guy had a hard copy that came with the splitter but it is not very comprehensive, kind of a flaky manual actually
    ok I will put the heet in there and run it, that should help bind some of the water up to get it out.
    I think it was setting outside uncovered for a while and the breather cap deal wasn't even tight.
    Once I get the oil changed out everything should be fine, the splitter will probably last me the rest of my life.
    Bought a splitter cover off Amazon, for 30 bucks, good reviews on it, it covers everything except the wheels.

    Yeah the gas is all 10% round here, I always put Stay BIL in it before I fill the can
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2015
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  20. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Does that hose have a shut off valve of some kind on the end?