One of my employees had her passenger side front tire fall of last week after a tire rotation! Remaining lug nuts were mostly hand tight! Tire shop is paying for a lot of damage!
Hi Would this be more accurate than the torque sticks? https://www.eastwood.com/powerbuilt...kedid=580522474071&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1
Hello Here is a very good article explaining the issue with the wheel lugs being too tight! Now that I have the compressor setup right we can zip them off and put them back on with the correct torque. Impact Guns | MotorWeek
I got a 1/2" drive battery powered impact wrench and some sockets a few years ago as it was costing $200/yr to get the snow tires (on their own set of rims) swapped on/off every year . Paid for itself after the 1st year. Now I zip 'em off with it, use it to put them back on but just till they're tight then use a torque wrench. sam
Back in the day I snapped two of the 5 studs on one wheel of my S-10 trying to change a tire. Gotta love a tire man with an air gun and 175psi. Bought the correct torque stick for my last and current ride (90ftlb) and use it religiously. I also grease my hub bolt threads.
I have dealt with stuck wheels and bad lug nuts before. First rule is never use chrome covered nuts. Second rule is use never seize on everything. Wire brush the hub and rim, put never seize on hub indexing ring and studs. Now assemble BY HAND and torque to spec BY HAND. I remove the chrome covers on any stuck nut and then use the correct size socket. Works great. A stuck wheel gets heated around the hub area with the torch and it pops right off. I cut one brake drum in half to get it off because there was no adjuster hole to back off the shoes, but not because it was rusted on.
Oh come on…. Yer supposed to let that impact eat and just rattle hammer them lug nuts a good minute or more.
Hello I wonder why this tool was invented?? LOL I had to crank the static pressure of our 80 gallon compressor up to 120 psi to get all but one off. However it loosened that nut and Them the icon breaker bar got it off easily. Not sure how this tool works, has anyone tried it?
I’ve used versions of it compliments of the army. Ours were considerably larger though. things definitely came apart with it always. Either how they were supposed to or with violent consequences.
I think you’re better off using a torque wrench for tightening. we’d use them when we had to torque large bolts/ nuts onto armored or construction vehicles. I’m talking 1500-2200 lb-ft of torque. As to taking off…. I’ve had times times where hammering with a 12-spline impact did nothing but sit there and make a bunch of noise and other times so long as you see movement, just keep on hammering. I know talking with my cousin who’s a certified Non-destructive testing inspector, his comment has been to sit there and let the impact do it’s job for 15-30 seconds at least. So there’s no “one-size fits all” answer.
I managed to get the correct torque limiting socket for my vehicles (orange 21mm, 90ftlbs) and it is indespensible for tire work. I never have to fight them off and I can tighten them with any impact gun. I had checked them with a mechanical torque wrench and the ones testes were showing within 2ftlbs of tightness. Start em by hand and just run them down with a few extra ugga duggas and good to go. Would recommend. I also grease my studs occasionally due to some breakage issues long ago from rust. Nothing better than getting a flat and snapping 3 of five studs trying to get the flat off.
Saw part of race just a bit ago Driver lost a wheel with those new single spin on nuts. that took out 2 cars maybe one more. same race later on driver lost a wheel came into pits on 3.
my 2 pennies- First those hose lugs are junk, get rid of them and replace with ones that don't have a "cover" I never torque my lugs, before air I would just stand on the breaker bar to finish them. Now I zip them on with setting 1, and than finish with a nice rap on 3. They come off easy with air still. I also antiseize my lug nuts completely. If you do that and still use a torque wrench you need to compensate for the antiseize. For times I don't have air, a nice pipe with the breaker bar and a few hops usually free them. Once I learned to junk them garbage lug nuts. When I have shops do tires, I take the lugs off and reapply antiseize. I don't trust them ever.
The very first thing I do after a shop touches the lugs on one of my vehicles is break them all loose and re-torque with a torque wrench. Revisit with the wrench after one or two drives. If you are lubing your lugs, you probably are getting more consistent torque values, assuming you are using a torque wrench. Lubing the threads sparingly is fine. Avoid getting it on the tapered seating surfaces. Technically you should reduce your torque value by about 30% or so for lubed threads unless the specification you are using is specifically for lubed threads. (Really only common for engine internals) I do not trust torque sticks. That's just me. But I do not work on cars for a living, and I don't work in a tire shop. It takes me about 60-90 seconds per wheel, assuming 5-6 lugs, to torque my own vehicles with a torque wrench. I know. I'm slow, but I'm good with that. Got a click-type torque wrench that hasn't been used for awhile? "Exercise" it a bit before using it on the first fastener, especially if the torque value is less than 50% of the wrench's capacity. Set it for 20% and give 'er a couple clicks (one a large fastener) before adjusting to the desired value and using on a fastener of value. Otherwise, it could over-torque and even break the fastener. Not usually a problem for wheel lugs, but good advice for other uses, ask me how I know... That was a gentle reminder that even the right tool is only as good as the operator.