This miter saw & bandsaw talk has me baffled - we ain't heating a jewelry store here folks build the box or use a milkcrate as noted above and in the future c/s/s wood at 22-23" and build an H-buck with guides on both sides at 10.5" load splits zip the saw through them - no bungies no ratchet straps no shin crackers just prep for the week ahead.
I say go get a new stove now if you can afford it. If you are cutting down several cord, it will take forever
Shawn, if you do this perhaps we could attach it to the primer in Resources? I think the two would compliment each other.
My current stove, and the previous, seem to burn best with splits oriented N-S. Loaded that way, max length would be 10", optimum seems to be 8". Ever try to stack 8-inchers? Collapse-O-Matic. So I buck to 16" for the outdoor stacks. Bringing a load in (250 lb. on a NT cart) they stop first at a 14" Grizzly bandsaw, w/3-tpi band, whereupon they get buzzed to 8". Quick & simple, very narrow kerf, min wood waste. I tried different saws, mainly table saws, for buzzing but that can get exciting when you get a pinch and kickback. That just doesn't happen with a bandsaw, with the band cutting into wood with the table behind. Lots of other uses for a bandsaw, of course. Way less dramatic than circular saws. Just one thing you have to watch out for with a bandsaw. Cutting round-section pieces, you've gotta hold 'em so they don't spin. If they do, they jam into the band, bringing it to an instant stop while seriously distoring it- wrecking it. PITA to extract. Or so I'm told. DAMHIKT.
