The only thing I could find on Bailey's was the "sealed" bearings. I saw some crank seals for the larger saws but not for the 340. I'm still looking though. Probably just missed it or something This is what I saw: Husqvarna 503 93 23-02 Oem Crankshaft Bearing (Sealed) 340 345 350 503932302 | OEM Crankshaft Bearings for Husqvarna Chainsaws | Chainsaw Crankshaft Assemblies | www.www.baileysonline.com.com T2 Tappin'
Yea maybe on those the seal and bearing is all one unit? And like others said , sometimes a dealer or other online source for parts is cheaper than baileys.
They are listing the cover on ebay to fit a a 340, 345, and 350. Husqvarna OEM Top Cover fits 340 345 350 503910501 The cranks seals were leaking on mine. I'm not sure if it a problem with these saws or not. My saw had been sitting a few years so that did not do them any good. You can try it with out doing the crank seals. They are easy to replace later. The dealer only sell the seals already on the bearings. I got mine off ebay. CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS FOR HUSQVARNA 340 345 346 346XP 350 351 353 503 93 23-02 | eBay The impulse is the what lets the carb have vacuum to work. The impulse passage is in a different location on a 346 cylinder.
Impulse is the little hole or tube on lower cylinder that routes to little hole on the carb to vibrate the fuel pump diaphragm. Some carbs are flat against intake, some carbs have a tube. There will be a tube within the intake setup.
Tomorrow morning I'm taking the bottom end of the saw to the mechanic to make sure there is no damage to it. If there isn't any damage I will be making an order for the rebuild for sure. Trying to get a cart together on Bailey's to see what the price will be versus the shop price. On the 346 cylinder I would have to drill a hole for the impulse? Would the impulse setup be different between the 340 and the 346 cylinder? T2 Tappin'
You will have to grind a grove for the impulse. You could also file it but that would take longer. See that notch in the left of the riser, and the hole in the bottom of the cylinder. IIRC my 350 had a hole through the side of cylinder wall for the impulse. Photo "Meteor 346 cylinder ported for Husky 350" in the album "Old-Cat's interesting pics" by old-cat
Easy? In order to replace these, you need to remove the crank(and flywheel). I'd guess once you do the rebuild, you wouldn't want to dig that deep later. I'd say use what you have but, you had that separate metal piece pressed down in the "top": That impression as seen on the right side bearing has screwed the pooch. If it weren't for that, you could simply smear a nice layer of sealant around the bearing seal and be good. In this case, I'd really recommend replacing them before assembly. Save yourself a buck and just get seals. Your bearings are probably fine. Oh yeah, might not want to use your credit card w/ Baileys...
94BULLITT that link is headed over to a lauson saw thread. The Wood Wolverine very true. Once I do the rebuild I really wouldn't want dig this far back into the engine again for a while. Do you know of a reputable online dealer that I could use a card with? Is Bailey's not too trustworthy with cards? Thank y'all for pointing out the crank seals T2 Tappin'
Also I meant to ask are there any slightly larger saw dogs to replace the stock ones on the 340? Wouldn't mind having a little extra bite down there. I've seen plenty for the larger Huskies T2 Tappin'
Baileys had a major credit card data breech in the past. Lots of guys had there cards compromised. That ebay guy has almost 4000 feedbacks, all 100% positive and he's about $175, keep that number in mind. Here is a very trustworthy guy I know from a different saw forum. Hills Ace Hardware and Outdoor Power 186 West Athens Street: Winder, GA. 30680 770 - 867 - 3925 275 Highway 78: Loganville, GA. 30052 770 - 466 - 1991 Sales and Service 94BULLIT, link is dead for me too.
Your right he is going to need seals. These are probably the easier saw to work on. You could pull the flywheel, muffler (2 bolts, or 4 with the 346 bracket), carb( 2 bolts), then the cylinder (4 bolts) and the riser (4 bolts). When I tore mine down I literally had the cylinder off in 5 minutes and did not use power tools.
Agree those semi-circ shims have buggered up the seal. Now, if it was one of my beater saws that I didn't really care if it blew up....I might clean seal with carb cleaner, layer seal depressions thick with Motoseal for 24h, then re-assemble. But get new ones if you want to be sure. I'm thinking those shims must be the bottom of the transfer column and aide in moving gaseous fuel properly.
Also when you put the cylinder on be sure you have the intake boot on the cylinder. You can't get it on later.
Outdoor Power Equipment | Hill's Ace Hardware Pretty sure that's the website. Call the Winder location and ask for Joe (if ya want, tell him Jason referred you). Very knowledgeable, he knows exactly what you need.
The Wood Wolverine I'll keep that guy in mind on eBay. I'm a few hours north of GA in East NC haha. If you live in GA I hope y'all make it through the weather today unscaved. Thank you for the link to his shop dougand3 I think the semi circle shims are there to make a complete half circle on the bottom of the cylinder head. A better description is eluding my mind at the moment. I'll post another below of where they fit in the bottom of the cylinder. It has slots meant for them to go in. I think your right on moving the gases. 94BULLITT Thanks for pointing that out. I learned the hard way to get those intake boots on first when I took the carb off my Suzuki 250 four-wheeler and tried to put back together with the boots going in last. Just wouldn't happen. Same thing when I cleaned the carb on one of my 142's. They are tricky little buggers. I will get new seals also. I would rather go ahead and replace them now then do it later. I am still learning on the sealer for sure. T2 Tappin'
