If going 346 I'd want oem. You'll need some new hardware & need to shorten the cylinder mounting bolts if using one's for a 350. Here's the riser @ Bailey's. And you'll want to switch to a metal intake clamp. The plastic one's are known to leak.
The crank seal shim is a new one on me. Don't see it on IPL. It doesn't come on AM seal/bearing kits. Maybe it comes on OEM seals and just doesn't show. Is there a depression in the clamshell part where the shims sit?
Jon1270 I sure appreciate it. I got a pic from the 350 IPL below. On the pic below I circled what I think is the bearing cup. Correct me if I'm wrong. T2 Tappin'
Rightee-oh, chap. Think of the bearing cup as an adapter that allows a cylinder designed for a split magnesium crankcase to be used on a plastic-chassis homeowner saw.
concretegrazer thank you for that link. That was super helpful. Talking about new hardware what all would be new? dougand3 I didn't see either. I can't figure out what these little things are. Might take the small shim/spacer to the local shop and see if I can get a replacement for the other side. There is a place on the clamshell part for the small shims/spacers. I'll grab a pic of that real quick T2 Tappin'
You'll need new bolts to hold the cup/riser thingamajig to the case. And bolts to hold the cylinder to it. The later is what you might need to shorten. Also be mindful of the thread type. Some are course and some are fine from what I've read. Might be part of the # discrepancy.
concretegrazer Jon1270 That's strange for 2 different part numbers. Do you know if Bailey's carries the bolts needed for installation? What your saying is the stock bolts on the 340 won't work? The bolts don't come with the bearing cup do they? T2 Tappin'
I started looking around in my parts boxes and found an extra shim/spacer that fit perfect. Got lucky on that. Pays to save parts and pieces. These shims/spacers go on the bottom of the cylinder so the bearings/seals will glide properly. At least I believe so. I got a few pics below of the parts I'm talking about Circled in red is where it fits and circled in green is the part installed Here both parts are installed and circled in green T2 Tappin'
concretegrazer when your talking about using a metal intake clamp are you talking about where the carb fits to the cylinder? I can figure out how this clamp would be replaced since it has a backflow hose on it. Probably missing something simple T2 Tappin'
Not mine, but here are a few really great video's about this family of saws and exchanging parts on them. The 350 is in my opinion (and others) the best home-owner saw platform ever. Get the 346 conversion right and you will be amazed. Some really valuable info in these. And there are more if you search around his channel. Just my .02 on these, and I've flipped a few. Use red loctite on your muffler bolts upon reassembly or buy the 346 bracket and cut an "ear" off. Most failures are from the bolts coming loose and melting the case. 2nd is use a metal intake clamp and 3rd is to loctite the bolts that hold the base riser to the case.
When you replace the intake clamp, you'll also replace the hard plastic piece that surrounds the rubber boot. Be forewarned: getting the metal clamp to snap together properly is a PITA.
If you are planning to do the 346 swap, check out 13:37 into the second video I posted. Plopping a 346 cyl on that bearing cap isn't plug and play and he explains and shows why. Cut this part of the intake off, then use a 372 intake clamp right to the rubber boot.
That plastic clamp is what we are talking about. By your pointer finger. Buy a new intake that fits a metal clamp and clamp (around $6 for both.) Is spike60 on FHC? He would be able to take care of you nicely. Nevermind. The Wood Wolverine and concretegrazer did a much better job explaining. See posts above!
