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Chainsaw Rebuild

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by jfhrtn, Jan 16, 2017.

  1. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    If going 346 I'd want oem. You'll need some new hardware & need to shorten the cylinder mounting bolts if using one's for a 350.

    Here's the riser @ Bailey's.

    And you'll want to switch to a metal intake clamp. The plastic one's are known to leak.
     
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  2. dougand3

    dougand3

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    The crank seal shim is a new one on me. Don't see it on IPL. It doesn't come on AM seal/bearing kits. Maybe it comes on OEM seals and just doesn't show.
    Is there a depression in the clamshell part where the shims sit?
     
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  3. jfhrtn

    jfhrtn

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    Jon1270 I sure appreciate it. I got a pic from the 350 IPL below. On the pic below I circled what I think is the bearing cup. Correct me if I'm wrong.

    [​IMG]

    T2 Tappin'
     
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  4. Jon1270

    Jon1270

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    Rightee-oh, chap. Think of the bearing cup as an adapter that allows a cylinder designed for a split magnesium crankcase to be used on a plastic-chassis homeowner saw.
     
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  5. jfhrtn

    jfhrtn

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    concretegrazer thank you for that link. That was super helpful. Talking about new hardware what all would be new?

    dougand3 I didn't see either. I can't figure out what these little things are. Might take the small shim/spacer to the local shop and see if I can get a replacement for the other side. There is a place on the clamshell part for the small shims/spacers. I'll grab a pic of that real quick

    T2 Tappin'
     
  6. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    Odd that there's 2 different part #'s.:confused:

    Screenshot_2017-01-17-11-32-11.png
     
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  7. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    You'll need new bolts to hold the cup/riser thingamajig to the case. And bolts to hold the cylinder to it. The later is what you might need to shorten. Also be mindful of the thread type. Some are course and some are fine from what I've read. Might be part of the # discrepancy.
     
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  8. Jon1270

    Jon1270

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    That was going to be my guess.
     
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  9. jfhrtn

    jfhrtn

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    concretegrazer Jon1270

    That's strange for 2 different part numbers. Do you know if Bailey's carries the bolts needed for installation? What your saying is the stock bolts on the 340 won't work? The bolts don't come with the bearing cup do they?

    T2 Tappin'
     
  10. jfhrtn

    jfhrtn

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    I started looking around in my parts boxes and found an extra shim/spacer that fit perfect. Got lucky on that. Pays to save parts and pieces. These shims/spacers go on the bottom of the cylinder so the bearings/seals will glide properly. At least I believe so. I got a few pics below of the parts I'm talking about

    Circled in red is where it fits and circled in green is the part installed

    [​IMG]

    Here both parts are installed and circled in green

    [​IMG]

    T2 Tappin'
     
  11. jfhrtn

    jfhrtn

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    concretegrazer when your talking about using a metal intake clamp are you talking about where the carb fits to the cylinder? I can figure out how this clamp would be replaced since it has a backflow hose on it. Probably missing something simple

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    T2 Tappin'
     
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  12. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Not mine, but here are a few really great video's about this family of saws and exchanging parts on them. The 350 is in my opinion (and others) the best home-owner saw platform ever. Get the 346 conversion right and you will be amazed.




    Some really valuable info in these. And there are more if you search around his channel.
    Just my .02 on these, and I've flipped a few. Use red loctite on your muffler bolts upon reassembly or buy the 346 bracket and cut an "ear" off. Most failures are from the bolts coming loose and melting the case. 2nd is use a metal intake clamp and 3rd is to loctite the bolts that hold the base riser to the case.
     
  13. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Here's my pic of the bracket installed.
    20170117_131758.jpg
     
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  14. Jon1270

    Jon1270

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    Looks like you won't need those shims with the 346 cylinder and riser block.
     
  15. Jon1270

    Jon1270

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    (But you might need to replace the bearing seals. )
     
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  16. Jon1270

    Jon1270

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    When you replace the intake clamp, you'll also replace the hard plastic piece that surrounds the rubber boot. Be forewarned: getting the metal clamp to snap together properly is a PITA.
     
  17. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    If you are planning to do the 346 swap, check out 13:37 into the second video I posted. Plopping a 346 cyl on that bearing cap isn't plug and play and he explains and shows why.


    Cut this part of the intake off, then use a 372 intake clamp right to the rubber boot.
    DSC00652.JPG DSC00650.JPG

    DSC00831.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2017
  18. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    Right. He needs #'s 14 & 15 here.

    Screenshot_2017-01-17-12-30-51.png
     
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  19. Kyle Mulligan

    Kyle Mulligan

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    That plastic clamp is what we are talking about. By your pointer finger. Buy a new intake that fits a metal clamp and clamp (around $6 for both.) Is spike60 on FHC? He would be able to take care of you nicely.

    Nevermind. The Wood Wolverine and concretegrazer did a much better job explaining. See posts above!
     
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  20. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    So the NE's are good to go?