Chainsaw Rebuild

Anyone got a pic of the muffler bracket mod to adapt a muffler bracket to the 340? I got a bracket in the mail today and wanted to know how it could properly be adapted to fit. Had to order some muffler bolts and some fuel filters to restock my spare parts bins so I figured I would throw the muffler bracket in on the order

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Wolverine posted one back on page 2.

 

concretegrazer thank you for that. I will be able to make that work for sure. Just a little metal work and she will be fitted.

The Wood Wolverine I should have an almost identical bracket installed in the next couple evenings. I appreciate the picture

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Hope everyone has had a good past few days. Took the 340 out today to give it a test run and she didn't oil a lick. I came back took the clutch off, dumped all the bar oil out, blew all the oil ports out on the saw with the air compressor, cleaned out the bar, greased the sprocket, took the worm gear out, removed the oil pump, cleaned the oil pump. After all of that I proceeded to put everything back together which went smoothly and went back out again for another test run. Still not oiling even enough to get on the drive teeth. The teeth on the oil pump are not stripped, brand new worm gear, Kinetix bar oil which is thin, and new chain. Do y'all think it could be the bar? Maybe the oil pump? What are y'alls opinions?

If I should replace the oil pump could I run the 350 pump that is adjustable?







I got video but can't seem to get it to upload.

-Rick

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If all the oil passages are clear it has to be a bad oil pump. Are you sure the pump is turning with the mismatched work gear?

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I had a Poulan wild thing that was dry and when I went to put oil in it and fuel to crank up to sell it, it for some reason took like 30 to 45 seconds maybe a minute to prime up to start oiling. No issue after that ...not sure what the deal was but it took forever I thought. There similar construction so maybe they share the same issue.

How long did you try to get it to oil?

 

You can run the 350 pump. Start it up w the bar and clutch cover off. You should be able to see some oil come out. But don't do it if you just had the clutch off. You'll send it across the room at 9000rpm, . Have to run it to tighten it up.

 

I cut made 6 cuts on 22"+ plus red oak. It took maybe 12-15min. Almost a tank of gas to make the cuts. Went to fill it up and refill the oil but no oil was missing. I noticed while cutting the chain kept getting a brown buildup which I knew was heat but I figured I'd finish the cuts. Just got to resharpen the chain. The worm gear I picked up from my local shop and they matched the numbers so I am guessing it is the right one. I am going to take the gear Monday morning to the shop when I pick up another pump just to make sure it is the right one. Kinda wondering about the gear myself. I have seen a clutch go flying just to land on the floor and spin like a top on steroids haha. After seeing that I made the mental note not to do that. It would be my luck it would come up to my face. With the 350 pump all I would have to do is change the worm gear alongside the pump right?

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Does it look like the wing gear to y'all? My untrained eyes don't see any differences between the old one and the new one. When I test it back down tomorrow I'll get some side by side pics

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I did a write up on how to mod the 3 position oiler for even more flow. husqvarna-oiler-mod
And here is another helpful link. I'm wondering if you are sucking air and not getting good prime. husqvarna-340-345-and-350-oil-leak-fix ,

When you're in there, you should be able to tell if the worm is meshed with the oil pump and turning its gear.

 

I do appreciate those links. That gave me a whole new view of what might be going on. I could be sucking air causing the pump not to prime like it should. The little black rubber piece does look a little aged. Monday morning if I can grab a oil pump I will grab the little piece too. The metal cover plate looks like it has seen some stress too. Might be bent a little out shape. Not much but just a hair bent up

If I switch to the 3 position oil pump from the 346/350 what all would I have to change? The metal cover plate, black rubber piece, pump, and worm gear?

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Did a little shopping this morning. Picked up the 346/350 oil pump along with the sealing block and the 346/350 worm gear. Also have a replacement metal cover plate on order and a spare needle bearing for the sprocket to put in the field box I take with me.

I got the new oil pump, sealing block, and worm gear installed tonight. I would have cranked her up and made a couple cuts in the backyard but the neighbors would have had my head running a saw this late haha. Dreams of living in the boondocks one day where I don't have to worry are alive and strong. Tomorrow evening I'll give her a test run to see how it's doing. I got the oil pump wide open right now hoping it will be enough.

If it's not enough I will be attempting the 3 position oiler mod in the link posted above. Hoping to get to that 1:1 ratio between a tank of gas and a tank of oil.

-Rick







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Before I headed out to work this morning I tested it the new pump to see if it would prime. After about 10-15 seconds it primed right up and started pumping. Now just to test it out when I go and start cutting



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Looks like you have oil now. Just for future reference, the 346 and the 350 worm gears are different. Cranks are not the same diameter.
"The 346 worm drive
Part #503892103
Works on a 346 crank
Not a 350 crank
It has a bigger diameter (.59 inch compared to .50 inch) and has a different depth than a 350 worm drive"

 

The Wood Wolverine I do appreciate that info. I got that noted up there in the mental filing cabinet.

Here are the numbers off the worm gear and the worm gear/pinion





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Got the new cover plate picked up and installed this evening





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What would be the best way to do a muffler mod in this saw. The exhaust comes out of the top of the muffler and it just seems like there would be some breathing restrictions there

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Add an outlet on top on the front half of the muffler staggered over to the opposite side of the factory outlet.

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Are there any threads with someone doing a muffler mod? Would you seal the stock outlet?

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