Chainsaw Rebuild

340/345/350 came with spur drive.

As you can see earlier in this thread, the worm drive being used has larger splines but is being used with a rim drive clutch like pictured above. Not saying this won't work, for a while... If you stop getting erl, you know where to look.
There is no 100% correct worm drive for the rim set up on these saws from all the research I've done. Guys end up throwing something in there like was done on jfhrtn's saw. I really don't want to replace the whole drum every time the spur wears but haven't pulled the trigger because I don't like wonky (lol) set-ups.

 

The way I service my bars before and after each use consists of the following. If there is anyway I can improve what I'm doing or anything I'm missing I'm open ears to any opinions. I always grease the sprocket tip on the bars when I use them and I run a bar cleaner I made down the rail after each day of use to make sure it clean. Blow everything out with compressed air to make sure all the oil hole on the bar is clean and no gunk is in the sprocket.

I'll probably go back with a Husquavarna bar if there is no better option in the same price range. I've had pretty decent luck with them as long as I keep them clean and the sprocket greased.

The Wood Wolverine Is there a worm gear that I can switch over to so it will improve the oiler and hopefully take out any slop? Maybe some type of mod that I can do to the current worm gear? I'll definitely be keeping an eye on the oil output no doubt

T2 Tappin'

 

Did you ever find an outer dog? I have one sitting on my bench at work that mounts to the bar nuts, I have no idea where it came from but I will take a close look at it to see if there is a name or number on it, or get a picture if you want.

 

I sure do appreciate it Jnb

I didn't find one last night. If there is a part number or name that would be awesome. I plan on grabbing an outer dog for my 562 and if there is one available for the 340 I'll order that at the same time along with a new air filter for this 340.

T2 Tappin'

 

It has made in Sweden with part # 5060149-01H. I believe it is a husqvarna part, and it may be what you are looking for. Let me know how you make out and, hope this helps.

 

Thank you for that Jnb. That is indeed what I'm looking. I'll see if I can find one with the same part # and get it to my door to see how it does.

Also took the 340 out for its maiden voyage for the last hour of day light this afternoon. Y'all were dead right about that rim drive sprocket not letting the oiler operate properly. Is there an oiler from another model with a rim drive sprocket I could swap in and use?



T2 Tappin'

 

Nope.

 

Just go to the shop next week and grab the right sprocket for it? I want sure if there was an oiler that was compatible from a larger saw that may have run a rim sprocket.

T2 Tappin'

 

Oil pump compatibility isn't the issue. You could probably run the Husky 3 position pump from the 350(it's adjustable), but that doesn't solve the fact that there is not a correct worm drive gear for the rim drive clutch drum you have. The one that fits correctly is a spline drive clutch drum. Guys have run a setup like yours with success... for a while. It's a sloppy fit. Did you visit that link I posted. Tons of info on this subject. I'm not an expert but like I said, I've been researching.

 

It appears that there's no option available due to mag/plastic case differences.

Spike60 on the subject.

 

Doing all that any bar should last forever. I rarely clean my bars. And compressed air should clean everything out of them necessary.

If you want a new bar and like husky get one.
I'm not saying cheap bars like forester are better that oregon (husky) bars but there are many folks on here that run cheaper bars and they work fine. DexterDay has or had a forester bar he was useing on a 036/360 I beleive that had like 50 cords on it and not a piece of paint chipped or burnt off. He takes extreme care of his stuff so that's most of it so I can comment to how long an Oregon would last under his care but I do beleive this can attest to the life that a cheaper bar can give.
In the end its your money, use or buy what you like. Me personally I would file the rails down on the current bar and run it till the sprocket tip locks up. Or some other damage occurs.

 

What kind of plastic is the OEM worm gear?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

clemsonfor sounds like just a cheap bar with good maintenance will last for a decent time. I've run husky and Oregon bars in the past with no problem. Might just run which ever bar I can get for a decent price and put the money saved on bars into decent chains. I'm kinda finicky about keeping stuff clean haha but it does help in the long run.

The Wood Wolverine I couldn't get the link to open on my phone but I'm going to try on my computer here shortly. I do appreciate the link.

concretegrazer thank you for that link also. It was pretty helpful.

Not sure why the guy I got it from wanted a rim drive on a smaller saw. I don't like how it doesn't oil like it should especially cutting mainly oak. I wish I could figure out a way to get it oil right but if I can't I will probably get a spur sprocket for it. I guess that would be the best choice since there the difference between the plastic and mag worm gears. I am going to be doing a lot of research also trying to educate myself the best I can.



T2 Tappin'

 

Picked up a spur sprocket today and another chain.





Got to give the chain after cutting the roots of this oak to help fell it and limbing the top. They were covered with sediment from Hurricane Matthew.





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Wouldn't it be easier to cut it at say waist height and then cut it lower with the large saw where you can go all the way around it? You wouldn't have to cut all those but flares off

 

I would have been a little easier. It had so much sediment and dirt from the tree being 6-8ft underwater I tried to do some of the cutting with the 340 through the worst of it. Then let the 562 do its work getting through the heart. Had to cut some of the rot the off the rear of the log. Timber that has been flooded several times can be a bit of pain but it's better than having soon to be widow makers and rotten tops hanging over your head. It was fun gaining some more experience though. Just got to process it down into firewood and burn the rot in the bon fire

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I saw a cool video on youtube how to cut a stump off like I would be talking about and not have to use wedges or anything to hold the stump up to keep from pinching. You only put the bar saw 2/3 deep into the stump, DON'T come out the far side bar tip needs to stay in stump. You use the top of the bar to cut going around and the sstump sits on top of the chips as it packs the void full and can't sit down on the bar. Going to find the video now.

 

These guys are full of good tips!

 

Some great info in that vid. I will try that on the next stump I have it at least attempt to learn it haha

T2 Tappin'