Sorry about that. Someone in Pittsburg bought it. We plan to drive and meet 1/2 way so in that aspect it worked out(cash is king). Plus I don’t have the hassle of shipping and a face to face is always good IMO.
Tried out my new zoo city 272xp very strong saw 200+ comp no decomp Easy to drop start though. neighbor dropped of this 038 magnum It's a heavy slow pig compared to the 2 series From the same era. I've got to find a tank and fix the fuel line On it.
Every once in a while you got on a streak. I little more than I usually go for a used saw but not much. Needs a soft goods exchange. And muffle looks as easy as any to make breathy.
I've been punching out some Homelite projects. Social distancing made me do it. Some may be interested if ever wanting to swap/upsize/ on these models, so I figured I'd share. I have converted the 2.3 XL-1 to the 2.5 XL-1 AO/Super Mini in the past. The cranks and rods are the same. But, it included modifying the drivecase to accept the additional auto oiler that was absent on the XL-1. In reality, with this project, I was just after the cool hardnose Oregon bar but...things got involved. PO botched a reassembly about 30 years ago. XL-1 (blue) drivecase was improperly mounted to the Super Mini. Further inspection revealed a wallowed out bearing pocket in the case and missing bearing retainer clips. Crank had been drifting all over the place. Super Mini auto pump was mounted to the drivecase, but the blanks were still in place for auto inlet/outlet. Lots of hours (but I have the time) and 3 stripped saws later, I managed to put together a proper runner as it would have looked/functioned in 1973. I salvaged a crank, rod, bearing and drivecase (manual oiler setup only) off of a smoked red XL-1 (1975). I used the crankcase from the original Super Mini. Only for those that may be remotely interested in killing chunks of 2 days and nights need apply. Some starting parts after stripping 3 saws Drilled out the drivecase plugs to gain access to the direct bypass to the bar pad. Blocked the bridge between the left (inlet to auto pump) and right (outlet to bar pad) with strategically worked dollops of JB-Weld. Copper wire shows the bypass that is now blocked off. Tapped the screw bosses with 8-32. Had to increase the pilot diameter on the pump by 0.035". The casting on the red XL-1 drivecase is larger around the crank than I recall on the really early XL-1 (blues). That, or I likely forgot that I had to modify the pump somewhat. Been a few years. I am just a hack using a dremel and some redneckery. Bolts up and both manual and auto oiler work well. Homelite had the best paint detail in the business. All paint no decals. I have several in these series' and it is interesting to see how cost cutting measures were slowly incorporated over a 10 + year period. Decals started replacing screening. Fewer multi-tone accents. More plastic.
New fuel and pulse line and starter rope. Has a wildthing muff bolt in the broken handle now Wrapped in electrical tape. for rigidity It's solid now Told him to bring me a tank I'll swap it out. He was very impressed with the 272
Friend of my mum donated this after her dad passed. That was a year ago. I got it running then and now more interested. Cooling sounding stock saw I own.
Haha she's coming soon........I think lol. I'm generally hesitant to buy from Home Despot, especially online. Any tips on model numbers?
Depends on what your looking to do with it? I’ve had a 50cc for about 10 years and loved it easy starting and a little powerhouse. Model was PS5400s I think. My new saw is a 6421 that’s 64cc little heavier then I’m used to but she just powers thru the big stuff.
Well, the Shindiawa 488 is done . New P&C , intake boot ,and some minor stuff , opened up the muffler a bit . Pretty decent power for 48 CC’s . Had the 20” bar buried in oak , and it pulled it better than I would have thought . Kinda nice to have the reach with a fairly light saw ,and know it will work in larger wood if it had to .
