I still have my Stihl USG with the foot-operated clamp. Pricey option for sure but very reliable and productive tool.
The local dealership I bought stuff from when he quit had 6 usg’s that he kept because he was still going to do chains for people. Some were red and grey and still going strong. He also had the saw blade and hedge trimmer blade attachments
I recall on mine the most important thing to fix was the consistency when you switch from grinding the left teeth to the right teeth. Stock I had to reset the tooth adjustment knob by as much as half a turn so that it would take off the same amount. I recall polishing up mating surfaces. The shim went inside the round table to eliminate the slop. I think I had to zero out the angle gauge because it was off. Gosh that was a long time ago!
Yes it was . not surprised I don't remember what I even did but you are probably dead on. No more left to right now anyway since I only use it for rakers. It works just fine for that.
Get a cordless Dremel with Oregon stone for in the field touch up each tank. Start each day with a ground chain, get the best grinder you can afford.
Amazon for $40-$50, three stones in the Oregon pack for $9. When short on time, the cordless will sharpen a full comp 32” loop in 2 minutes. The convenience to touch up a chain with each tank full vs the dread to file. Sure makes bucking faster when that chain is sharp. That corner does the heavy lifting and when it’s not optimal amazing how slow a cut is.
I hate it. I usually swap saws or go back to the shop and touch up on the grinder. Fortunately, I have that luxury as most my cutting is on our property.
A lost corner puts a damper on progress. Worth every effort to keep it cat claw sharp. As you stated cut enough you know exactly when it happens and to fix it immediately.
Mostly the same here. I just keep a spare chain handy when the corner looks to damaged for a touch up with the Dremel.
I've also grown to really dislike semi chisel. It feels like a really dull full chisel to me. Lol. I'm not investing the time trying to grind it to be faster. I know it has its place but I'm not a fan.
I prefer square grind but with skidded logs, I got a 100 foot roll of semi yesterday and spun 2@ 32” loops. Will see if I need to get a roll of full chisel full comp round. May just have to use 5+ square grind loops and change out every tank/lost corner. I’m sure I will know before I dull the first loop. Will be light out soon enough and doubt it will take 5 minutes to figure it out. May try a loop of the carbide chain.
I have a very nice Oregon grinder but find it tedious to use. I find the Stihl 2-way sharpening file is faster for touch up and normal sharpening. If the chain needs truing or hit a rock, the Grinder is the tool of choice. In the field I always have at least two saws with a couple extra chains each. If a chain needs a touch up, I use the 2-way tool. If I hit metal or a rock, I switch chains or saw and later use the grinder if necessary. Baring chain damage, the Stihl 2-way is my primary sharpening tool!
I used to use stihl 2 in 1 sharpeners for all sharpening. I can definitely swap a fresh chain on faster than a touch up. I can remove and grind a chain faster than a 2-1 doing more than a touch up. Partly because I do rakers separately as the 2-1 makes the chains to aggressive for some of my saws. Basically all the stock saws.